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Watch by Jacques Mestre, Switzerland, 1625–1650 — view 1 of 5
View 1 of 5 · Image: © 2019 Musée du Louvre / Département des Objets d'art du Moyen Age, de la Renaissance et des temps modernes · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

Pocket Watches · Watch

Watch by Jacques Mestre, Switzerland, 1625–1650

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Jacques Mestre (Horloger)
Date
1625–1650
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Zurich = Zürich, Switzerland
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
silver, brass
Dimensions
height 6 cm; diameter 4,4 cm; thickness 2 cm; diameter 4,5 cm
Holding institution
Musée du Louvre, Paris
Accession / object no.
OA 8296
Credit line
Musée du Louvre, Département des Objets d'art du Moyen Age, de la Renaissance et des temps modernes
Catalogue title (original)
Montre ronde (French)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by Musée du Louvre, Paris (object number OA 8296), this is a watch by Jacques Mestre, made in Zurich = Zürich, Switzerland, dated 1625–1650. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver, brass. Recorded dimensions: height 6 cm; diameter 4,4 cm; thickness 2 cm; diameter 4,5 cm. The record is illustrated with 5 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Catalogue description — Musée du Louvre (French)

Fond aplati orné d'une rosace centrale autour de laquelle rayonnent des sillons d'argent poli et des côtes granulées d'où se détachent des rangs de perles ciselées, décor se prolongeant sur la lunette du verre. Carré de remontage recouvert d'un petit disque mobile, gravé d'une rosace semblable à celle du centre. Tête du pendant en forme de boule laissant librement passer l'anneau de suspension. Charnière au-dessus du XII. Cadran à chiffres romains séparés de points (demi-heures), au centre, une peinture émaillée figurant, sur fond de paysage, une jeune femme voilée, tenant une pelle en compagnie de l'Amour ; sur le pourtour, fausse-plaque en laiton visible dorée et gravée de stries. Mouvement muni d'un échappement à roue de rencontre, fusée avec corde à boyau. Coq ovale repercé de fleurs, cliquet, piliers piriformes.

Shown in the original language of the source catalogue. An editor-reviewed English translation has not yet been published; we do not publish machine translations as authoritative text.

Dating and period as catalogued (French)

Epoque / période : Louis XIII (1610-1643) (Occident->époque moderne = Ancien Régime->dynastie des Bourbons) · · Date de création/fabrication : 1625 - 1650

Shown in the original language of the source catalogue. An editor-reviewed English translation has not yet been published; we do not publish machine translations as authoritative text.

Materials and techniques as catalogued (French)

Matériau : argent · Matériau : laiton · Technique : techniques métal (orfèvrerie) · Technique : émaillé = émaillage = émail = émaux (techniques métal)

Shown in the original language of the source catalogue. An editor-reviewed English translation has not yet been published; we do not publish machine translations as authoritative text.

Inscriptions & marks

Signature : ; mouvement signé : Jacques Mestre / A Zurich

Provenance

collection Jules-René Olivier (1855-1933), horloger-collectionneur ; legs de sa sœur Marie-Julie Olivier, n° 601 ; comité du 24 janvier 1935 ; conseil du 5 février 1935 ; décret du 4 août 1935

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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