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Watch by Jacques Goullons, France, c.1640 — view 1 of 6
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Pocket Watches · Watch

Watch by Jacques Goullons, France, c.1640

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Jacques Goullons (movement)
Date
c.1640
Country of origin
France
Place
Paris
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
copper-gilt, steel, enamelling
Accession / object no.
7543:1-1861

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number 7543:1-1861), this is a watch by Jacques Goullons, made in Paris, France, dated c.1640. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: copper-gilt, steel, enamelling. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Brief description — Victoria and Albert Museum

Gold case painted in enamel on the back with the Holy family with Saint Anne, after Rubens and on the front with the Virgin and Child. Inside are portraits of Louis XIII and Cardinal Richelieu. Band of the case enamelled with the Flight into Egypt and the rest on the Flight into Egypt. Movement by Jacques Goullons. Made in France about 1640.

Provenance

Grand Palais Exhibition RF.2001/297

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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