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Vintage 1937 Elgin Art Deco Gold Tone Tonneau Wristwatch with Gemex Expansion Bracelet — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Vintage 1937 Elgin Art Deco Gold Tone Tonneau Wristwatch with Gemex Expansion Bracelet

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Elgin (maker)
Date
c. 1937
Country of origin
United States
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
base metal, gold, metal
Dimensions
7 x 7 x 5 in
Lot
Item 239006785
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 53, September Watch & Clock Auction, Palmer's Auction Co (2026), via LiveAuctioneers
Catalogue title (original)
Vintage 1937 Elgin Art Deco Gold Tone Tonneau Wristwatch with Gemex Expansion Bracelet (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by LiveAuctioneers auction archive (lot Item 239006785), this is a wristwatch by Elgin, made in United States, dated c. 1937. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: base metal, gold, metal. Recorded dimensions: 7 x 7 x 5 in. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Palmer's Auction Co

A vintage manual wind wristwatch produced by the Elgin National Watch Co. circa 1937. The watch features an Art Deco tonneau-shaped case constructed of gold-tone plated base metal, manufactured by the Star Watch Case Company. The off-white dial is detailed with applied gold-tone Arabic numeral hour markers and a black railroad-style minute track. The timepiece is powered by an Elgin USA manual wind movement, stamped with serial number 37219726. The inner case back is marked Cased and Timed by Elgin National Watch Co., Star Watch Case Company, and serial number 3135153, accompanied by several hand-scribed jeweler service marks. The watch is fitted with a period-correct gold-tone Gemex expansion bracelet marked Made in U.S.A. Case length: 38 mm Case width: 25 mm (excluding crown). The watch is in worn vintage condition. The dial shows significant foxing, spotting, and age-related discoloration across the surface. The gold plating on the case exhibits heavy wear and brassing, particularly on the high points, edges, and lugs. The crystal has numerous surface scratches. The movement appears intact, but the mechanical functionality and timekeeping accuracy have not been tested. Professional cleaning and servicing are recommended.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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