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Vacheron Constantin ref. 4870, Automatic Yellow Gold Dress Watch — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Vacheron Constantin ref. 4870, Automatic Yellow Gold Dress Watch

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Vacheron Constantin (maker)
Date
c. 1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
yellow gold
Dimensions
Case 36 mm
Stock no.
OC2497
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2497)
Catalogue title (original)
Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4870 - Automatic Yellow Gold Dress Watch (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2497), this is a wristwatch by Vacheron Constantin, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Vacheron Constantin can trace its roots back to 1755 and along with only a handful of other brands, is credited as one of the oldest manufacturers of mechanical clocks, pocket-watches, and of course, watches. In fact, Vacheron enjoys the prestige as the oldest continually operating manufacturer that still operates today. Vacheron is also a member of what has become known as The Holy Trinity , along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. All three of these manufactures have very different identities and focus areas within the industry, with VC generally regarded as the technical innovator. And despite a bevy of both technical and mechanical firsts, including the most complicated watch ever at the time of writing this, VC remains the lesser known name of the three in the broader watch community and certainly least understood. The piece that we have here, a Reference 4870, is a somewhat restrained offering by Vacheron standards of the era. Dating to circa the 1960s, this 18k yellow gold dress watch features what would likely have been considered a large case for the era, coming in at approximately 36mm in diameter. It has beautiful tapered lugs that curve downward and a 'stepped' bezel tying everything together. It even features a screw-down caseback, which results in an overall feel that is somewhat reminiscent on a Rolex Oyster Perpetual from the era. It comes to us in excellent overall condition, with a strong and symmetrical case that shows normal signs of wear throughout. The satin champagne dial features a lovely silvered chapter ring on the outside of the applied indices, with additional applied 'dot' indices. There is an applied yellow gold Vacheron Maltese cross at the 12 o'clock position, with simple black text under it and "Automatic" printed on the bottom half of the dial. This piece is simultaneously elevated and restrained. The small details on the dial and intricacies of the case require a closer look to really be appreciated, and lets be honest, that is exactly what Swiss watchmaking is all about.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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