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Universal Genève Tri-Compax ref. 22283, 'Brushed' silver Non-Luminous Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Genève Tri-Compax ref. 22283, 'Brushed' silver Non-Luminous Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève (maker)
Date
c. 1943
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
silver
Dimensions
Case 37 mm
Stock no.
OC3200
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3200)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Genève Tri-Compax Ref. 22283 - 'Brushed' silver Non-Luminous Dial Unpolished (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3200), this is a wristwatch by Universal Genève, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1943. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver. Recorded dimensions: Case 37 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Universal Genève was one of the many great brands that succumbed to the quartz crisis of the 1970s. While they disappeared, it was not for their lack of impressive watches. To underscore that fact, keep in mind that Henri Stern Watch Agency in their nearly 80-year history has only ever sold two brands: Patek Philippe, and Universal Genève. Touted until this very day as an incredible achievement in complicated watchmaking, the ‘Tri-Compax' family of watches was introduced in 1944 and slid in above both the existing chronographs (e.g., Compax, Medico-Compax, Dato-Compax, Film-Compax etc.) as well as the other complicated calendar watches offered by UG at the time as the brands most complicated timepieces. In many ways, the Tri-Compax combined the two ranges of watches, adding a moonphase, day, date, and month complication to a chronograph. It was produced for around 25-years in a variety of metals, shapes, sizes, and with a slew of dial variants. The example that we have here, a Ref. 22283, dates to circa 1943, actually pre-dates the official launch of the model, which occurred the next calendar year, making it a very early example. It also happens to be amongst the finest examples of any chronograph from this era that we have ever had the pleasure of offering. The large-for-its era 37mm case with prominent factory finishing present throughout showing just normal signs of wear. The 'square' pushers retain their fine chamfers and the caseback engravings remain crisp and clear. On the left case profile, there are 'micro-pushers' for setting the month, moonphase, and 'pointer' date around the moonphase aperture., which by the way, has a whimsical and always brightening face on the moon. The dial itself is very nicely preserved for a piece of this age, due largely in part to it being a non-luminous variant. The Arabic' indices are silvered 'foil' and are cropped at the 3 & 9 o'clock positions — a very thoughtful and almost funny detail found only on a handful of chronographs from select brands during this era — and are complimented by a 'feuille' handset with the chronograph hands a beautiful blued-steel. Powering this piece is UG's Cal. 481 manual-winding movement. Design details like the dynamic nearly perfectly sized case, the complicated movement within, and the busy, yet incredibly sophisticated dial layout, amount to a piece that clearly shows why Universal Genève was ultimately considered to be one of the finest manufactures in the era. Examples in condition like this with a desirable configuration simply do not surface on the open market all that often... and with the recent re-launch of the brand, collectors seem to be holding on to pieces like this, making for a great opportunity to grab this one.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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