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Universal Genève Polerouter Tropical Dial ref 204610-2, early 1960 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Genève Polerouter Tropical Dial ref 204610-2, early 1960

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève (maker)
Date
early 1960
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
W-3703
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3703)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Genève Polerouter Tropical Dial ref 204610-2 (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3703), this is a wristwatch by Universal Genève, made in Switzerland, dated early 1960. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

The Universal Genève Polerouter was originally designed by a 23-year-old Gérald Genta (who later designed the iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak) to commemorate Scandinavian Airlines System flights over the North Pole. Produced during the golden age of Universal Genève, this model represents a refined and mature version of the original 1954 design, featuring the technically advanced micro-rotor movement. The 35 mm case is in lovely condition, with the typical “lyre” or “twisted” lugs and a screw-down case back. The dial, which was originally black, has turned to a tropical milk-chocolate hue with a crosshair layout. It features a black central dial separated by an inner brushed steel chapter ring, often nicknamed the “tuxedo dial”—a lovely sight. The dial is topped off with dauphine-style hands and a date window at three o’clock. The watch is paired with its original Universal Genève crown and an UG pin buckle. Furthermore, a small cardboard UG hangtag is included in the sale. The watch features an automatic Cal. 218-2 with a gold rotor, which has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. If you’re looking for a classic design by Gérald Genta, this could be the one—get in touch for the details ! Specifications: Universal Genèva Reference 204610-2 35mm 1steel case with twisted lugs and screw back Serial 210xxxx dating to the early 1960’s Black “tuxedo” dial turned “tropical brown “ Original UG Leather strap , hang tag , UG steel pin buckle Cal. 218-2Automatic movement with gold micro rotor Fully serviced by our watchmaker

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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