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Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub (Ref. 869122/02), 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub (Ref. 869122/02), 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
UGPRS869122
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (UGPRS869122)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub (Ref. 869122/02) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number UGPRS869122), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

One of the most notable Universal Geneve watches of the post-war era was the Polerouter, which was released in 1954 and designed by Gerald Genta, the genius behind the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak . Genta was recruited by Universal Genève SA, which was at the time one of the most recognized watch companies in both Europe and the U.S., mostly for their chronograph models. This specific Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub is a highly collectible, beautifully maintained piece of history, designed by arguably one of the most influential watch designers to ever be recognized. This watch is a stand-out in any collection with an interesting background. SPECS Stock # UGPRS869122 Brand Universal Geneve Style Polerouter Sub Model 869122/2 Serial 23XXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Black Millimeters 38 Bracelet Stainless Steel Beads of Rice Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The excellent asymmetrical case is believed to be unpolished, retaining its factory finishing and showing honest signs of use. The original and rare blue bezel is in overall excellent condition with light signs of use and age present. The case retains its original oversized crown. The case back retains the serial and reference number which are commonly missing due to polishing. The watch comes on an aftermarket stainless steel beads of rice bracelet. DIAL & HANDS The matte black dial with white and red accents is in wonderful vintage condition with only very minor signs of aging. The tritium lume plots have taken on a wonderful golden patina and exhibit no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. The original tritium hands match the dial nicely and show no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. The art deco font date wheel is original and correct for this watch. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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