Universal Genève Polerouter ref. H 20217-4, Gilt 'Crosshair' Dial

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Universal Genève was one of the many great brands that succumbed to the quartz crisis of the 1970s. While they disappeared, it was not for their lack of impressive watches. To underscore that fact, the Henri Stern Watch Agency in their nearly 80-year history has only ever sold two brands: Patek Philippe, and Universal Genève. One of, if not the model line that UG is best known for, is the Polerouter. Born from the genius of a young, 23-year old Gérald Genta — long before his name became synonymous with icons — the Polerouter is a watch that speaks to both the soul and the mind of the collector. Originally conceived to commemorate SAS’s pioneering flights over the north pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, it’s far more than a handsome vintage piece; it’s a true milestone in mid-century horology. With its distinctive aesthetic, refined movement, and enduring legacy, the Polerouter checks all of the boxes for the vintage connoisseur — a surprisingly rare occurrence. The example that we have here dates to circa 1956 and is probably very close to what comes to mind when you hear "Polerouter." It features a 35.5mm case with the characteristic 'twisted' lugs, a signed 'shield' crown, and a screw-down caseback with the 'SAS polar route' engraving. Inside, the dial is framed with another Polerouter signature design characteristic: the engine-turned steel chapter ring. The dial itself is a correct black 'gilt' unit, with luminous plots present at all positions and a correct 'dauphine' handset to match. Powering this piece is another Polerouter classic feature: an automatic-winding 'bumper' movement. It is the culmination of details like the dynamic and perfectly-sized case, the dial layout with the asymmetrical date aperture, the efficient and innovative movement design, and the fantastic build quality that clearly show why Universal Genève is considered to be one of the finest manufactures in the era. ...and its only once it's on your wrist, that these details become apparent. They keep on delivering and continue to impress no matter what else might finds its way into your collection.