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Universal Geneve Polerouter (Ref. 20357-2), 1960 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve Polerouter (Ref. 20357-2), 1960

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1960
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
UGPR20357-2
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (UGPR20357-2)
Catalogue title (original)
1960 Universal Geneve Polerouter (Ref. 20357-2) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number UGPR20357-2), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1960. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

One of the most notable Universal Geneve watches of the post-war era was the Polerouter. Designed by Gerald Genta. Genta was recruited by Universal Genève SA, which was at the time one of the most recognized watch companies in both Europe and the U.S. mostly recognized for the companies chronograph models. After Universal Genève settled a patent dispute regarding the micro-rotor caliber of movement, The Polerouter was originally manufactured as the Polarouter in 1954, containing the Cal. 138SS bumper movement. Then quickly replaced in 1958 with the new Cal. 215 micro rotator movements and a subtle name change from Polarouter to Polerouter. The Polerouter was then manufactured until late 1969. The Polerouter had taken on many variations within its first 15 years of production including Polerouter de luxe, Polerouter Genève, Polerouter Compact, Polerouter Super, Polerouter "NS", Polerouter III, Polerouter Jet, and the Polerouter Sub. If you don't know the name Gerald Genta, This is the same man responsible for designing some of the most iconic timepieces in existence including the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak This Universal Geneve Polerouter ref. 20357-2 is a beautifully well-maintained piece of history, remaining 100% original. Designed by arguably one of the most influential watch designers to ever be recognized. This watch is a stand out in any collection with an interesting background. SPECS Stock # UGPR20357-2 Brand Universal Geneve Style Polerouter Model 20357-2 Serial 20XXXXX Size Men's Material SS Dial Silver Millimeters 35mm Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The excellent case is believed to remain unpolished, retaining its original factory dimensions and showing honest signs of use. The case retains its original "Universal Geneve" signed crown. The original case back engravings are faint from wear but still remain slightly visible. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The beautiful and original silver dial has achieved an excellent vintage patina and the inner engine turned bezel is in stunning condition. The radium lume plots have aged to a dark greenish patina, under U.V. light inspetion the lume plots remain full and round exhibiting no degradation. The original dauphine hands match the dial perfectly, under U.V. light inspection the minute hand lume shows some light degradation, the hour hand lume remains fully intact. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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