Universal Geneve Polerouter Date (Ref. 204612/1) Silver "Crosshair" Dial, 1960s

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

This Universal Geneve Polerouter is a gorgeous piece of horological history. Designed by Gerald Genta, one of the most influential watch designers ever, and the man behind some of the most iconic timepieces in existence, including the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Universal Genève SA was one of the most recognized watch companies in both Europe and the U.S. in the post-war era, mostly recognized for its chronograph models. But after Universal Genève settled a patent dispute regarding the micro-rotor caliber of movement, they released what would become their most popular watch – the Polerouter. Originally manufactured as the Polarouter in 1954, it contained the Cal. 138SS bumper movement, which was then quickly replaced with the Cal. 215 micro rotator movements, which also resulted in a subtle name change from Polarouter to Polerouter. The Polerouter presented here features the updated Cal. 69 movements of the mid-1960s. The Polerouter had taken on many variations within its first 15 years of production, including Polerouter de luxe, Polerouter Genève, Polerouter Compact, Polerouter Super, Polerouter "NS", Polerouter III, Polerouter Jet, and the Polerouter Sub. This iteration, featuring a classic silver crosshair dial and original bracelet, is one of the most recognizable versions and one that would make for an excellent addition to any collection. SPECS Stock # UGPRD2046121 Brand Universal Geneve Style Polerouter Date Model 204612/1 Serial 23XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Silver "Crosshair" Millimeters 35 Bracelet Universal Geneve "Gay Freres" Flip Lock Bracelet W/ UM End Pieces CASE & BRACELET The impressive twisted lug case is in excellent condition, showing crisp edges and factory finishing, with minimal wear and nominal evidence of being previously polished. The case retains its original Universal Geneve signed crown. The watch retains its original crystal, which does have some crazing from age, and features the integrated date cyclops. The case back factory engravings are all visibly present. The original Universal Geneve "Gay Freres" flip-lock clasp bracelet with UM end pieces retains 16 links that show light stretch and will fit up to a 7.75-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The original silver "crosshair" dial features a lovely vintage aesthetic, featuring a subtle warm color with light aging present, and no damage. The original inner engine-turned bezel is also in excellent condition, though it is not aligned with the markers on the dial due to a rare factory flaw. The tritum lume plots all remain intact when inspected under UV light, with nominal degradation present, and have aged to a dark beige patina. The original tritium dauphine hands match the dial perfectly. Under UV light inspection, the hour hand exhibits some minor lume loss and remains stable; the minute hand exhibits no degradation. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.