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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve Oversized Dress Watch, 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 36 mm
Stock no.
Product 1310415028311
Credit line
Dealer listing, S.Song Watches (product 1310415028311)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Geneve Oversized Dress Watch (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by S.Song Watches (dealer), Seattle (stock number Product 1310415028311), this is a wristwatch by Universal Genève, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

Let me tell you that I remain a huge fan of the vintage gold dress watch, and for those looking to find value out there, this is the place to start. There is something beautiful about the dress watch, never loud or brash and always displaying its beauty in a more subtle way than say your Submariner or Autavia. Take this Universal Geneve for instance. I was stunned at how beautiful it was when I first came across it and knew that I had to have it. Housed in a solid 18k pink gold case and sized at a very wearable 36mm, it has elongated lugs that slowly turn inwards giving the case an even larger presence on the wrist. The silver two-tone dial reflects differently according to the light source and sometimes when the two tone really comes out, it is out of this world. With applied gold alternating Arabic and teardrop markers and Dauphine hands, all of these small details add up to produce what is really one of the most beautiful dress watches I’ve come across in awhile. To top it off, beating inside this Universal Geneve is a self winding Cal. 139 bumper movement that is just pure quality. For now, gold dress watches remain highly undervalued and I think it is only a matter of time before these become fully appreciated again.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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