Universal Genève HA-1 ref. 22560, 'A. Cairelli' Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Universal Genève was one of the many great brands that succumbed to the quartz crisis of the 1970s. While they disappeared, it was not for their lack of impressive watches. To underscore that fact, keep in mind that Henri Stern Watch Agency in their nearly 80-year history has only ever sold two brands: Patek Philippe, and Universal Genève. The piece that we have here is something incredible special and rare. Dating to circa the 1940s — a time when the world was at war, this oversized timepiece stands out from many of its contemporaries not just because of it's size, but because of the unusual and bold dial configuration. Known to collectors as a 'Cairelli Split,' these pieces were produced by Universal Genève for the Italian Military (both Navy and Air Force) for astronomic navigation. That is to say, navigation at night. The nickname comes from the name of the Rome-based distributor of these pieces, A. Cairelli, which is prominently featured on the lower half of the dial. The dial itself utilizes a 24-hr layout for clarity in timekeeping, along with a high-contrast silver base and bold black numerals. The movement, a Valjoux Cal. 55 by Valjoux, was modified by UG to run in this 24-hr format, as well as for the subsidiary register at the 3 o'clock position to log 16-minutes, rather than the more common 30 or 60 minutes. The hour and minute hands are of the 'Breguet'-style and executed in a gorgeous blued-steel finishing — as is the four chronograph hands. The case comes in at roughly 44.5mm in diameter to accommodate the incredible movement within. The lugs feature beautiful curved-profiles and also nicely curve down, lending for a much more comfortable wearing experience than the case dimensions would suggest. The square pusher at the 2 o'clock (or rather, 4 o'clock) position is to operate the split-seconds function once the chronograph is running. All three of the main chronograph functions, start, stop, and reset, are operated via a monopusher embedded within the winding crown at the 3 o'clock position. Being a wristwatch fitted with a Valjoux 55 is, in any capacity, a delight. It enjoys its status as one of the earliest Rattrapante calibres to be fitted into a wrist watch, and can only be found in a select few timepieces. It is estimated that less than fifty of these pieces were produced, likely with a handful lost to time. As such, these simply do not surface on the open market all that often... and with the recent re-launch of the brand, collectors seem to be holding on to great examples of all Universal Genève models, making this a very rare opportunity to acquire one.