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Universal Genève Gent's Watch, early 1940s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
early 1940s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 34.5 mm
Stock no.
Product 3695465153
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (product 3695465153)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Genève Gent's Watch (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number Product 3695465153), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated early 1940s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 34.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

There is fire sweeping through the international collector community that can be summed up in two words: Universal Genève . Until recently, this high end Swiss brand was little-known outside of their Polerouter models (designed by a young Gerald Genta), but recently, intense interest among collectors and enthusiasts has pulled the largely defunct manufacture into the limelight - a light that has long been overdue. Universal Genève was once responsible for some of the most beautiful dress watches and chronographs from the mid-20th century. From the purpose-driven to the ornate, UG had a touch all its own and breathed incredible beauty and craftsmanship into every piece they produced. While there has been some contemporary stirring from the brand (they released a manually-wound limited edition Compax at Basel World in 2009), it is Universal Genève's sumptuous vintage stylings that have the vintage community all abuzz. The piece we have for you here is a shining example of just how capable the brand once was at producing stunning high quality gentlemen's wrist wear. Dating from the early 1940s, this simple steel gent's piece epitomizes the design language of the war years, replete with Arabic dial, subsidiary seconds, and fixed spring bars. Sized at 34.5mm, this watch wears great on the wrist and exhibits a beautiful original dial patination, highlighted by blued steel hands. We originally located this watch in the Middle East a few years ago and it has spent that time in the collection of a prominent New York collector. We were very fortunate to get this beauty back in on trade, and don't expect it to last long!

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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