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Universal Geneve Dual Signed Cartier Dial, 18k Gold Square Cased Dress Watch, circa 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve Dual Signed Cartier Dial, 18k Gold Square Cased Dress Watch, circa 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève (maker)
Date
c. 1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
gold
Dimensions
Case 25 mm
Stock no.
vws3810
Credit line
Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws3810)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Geneve Dual Signed Cartier Dial - 18k Gold Square Cased Dress Watch - c.1960s (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws3810), this is a wristwatch by Universal Genève, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 25 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist

A Beautiful Dual-Signed Universal Geneve Cartier 18K Gold Dress Watch with a Stunning Roman Dial (Possibly a Refinished Dial) c.1960s Universal Genève, founded in 1894 in Switzerland, is renowned for its innovation and elegance in watchmaking. The brand gained prominence in the 1930s and 1940s with its chronographs, including the Compax series, worn by military officers and celebrities alike. Universal was among the first to produce wristwatch chronographs and contributed to the development of micro-rotor automatic movements. Though quieter today, its vintage models remain highly prized by collectors for their craftsmanship and historical significance. What's on Offer Now here’s something special—a striking watch from a prestigious brand, made all the more intriguing by the presence of a Cartier signature on the dial. At first glance, it’s simply beautiful. That said, it’s likely the dial has been professionally refinished at some point in its life. Given the history of collaborations between Universal Genève and Cartier, a dual signature like this isn’t entirely out of place. The case measures 25mm, which may sound small, but its square Tank-style design gives it a bold and confident presence on the wrist. The dial features a rich golden sunburst finish, contrasted with sharp black Roman numerals and elegant, blued steel hands. Crafted from 18k gold, the case is in excellent condition and adds a touch of classic luxury. Its value in gold alone makes this watch worth a punt. Quirky, perhaps? But it’s a truly charming piece with a unique story and undeniable appeal.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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