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Tudor Submariner (Ref. 79090) Black Dial, 1994 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Tudor Submariner (Ref. 79090) Black Dial, 1994

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Tudor (maker)
Date
1994
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
TDRSUB79090-12
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (TDRSUB79090-12)
Catalogue title (original)
1994 Tudor Submariner (Ref. 79090) Black Dial W/ Full Set (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number TDRSUB79090-12), this is a wristwatch by Tudor, made in Switzerland, dated 1994. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

The Rolex/Tudor relationship dates back to 1926 when Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex SA, wanted to create a more affordable alternative. Tudor manufactured Submariners adjacent to the Rolex submariner for many many years. In 1954, the year following the release Rolex's release of the submariner, Tudor released their first Submariner as an affordable alternative that didn't lack in quality or craftsmanship yet leveraged a non-inhouse Rolex movement. The Tudor Submariner 79090 uses the 2824-2 quick set movement which makes adjusting the date on the fly easy! This would make a great addition to a growing collection or be a great first piece as it retains the classic and timeless look of the Submariner. SPECS Stock # TDRSUB79090-12 Brand Tudor Style Submariner Model 79090 Serial B4XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Black Matte Millimeters 40 Bracelet Tudor 9315 Oyster Bracelet W/ 380B End Pieces CASE & BRACELET The wonderful case features thick and symmetrical dimensions and retains subtle chamfers, with minimal evidence of being previously polished present. The original bezel insert is also is exceptional, showing only nominal signs of use and featuring a deep navy blue coloration with the tritium pearl fully intact. The case retains its original Rolex trip-lock crown. The original Tudor 9315 folded-link Oyster bracelet with 380B end pieces retains 12 links that show moderate stretch for the style and age of the bracelet, and will fit up to an 8-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The matte black dial is flawless, showing no age or damage at all. The tritium lume plots have achieved a charming eggshell color with no degradation present under UV light inspection. The original hands were previously restored with luminova lume and features a subtle grey coloration, though the remain matching to the overall aesthetic of the watch. ACCESSORIES The watch comes as a complete set with its original Tudor guarantee paper, serialized hangtag, and the red Tudor box. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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