Sylvain Pinaud Origine Steel, 2025

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

Among the new generation of independent watchmakers, few have established a reputation quite as quickly as Sylvain Pinaud. Based in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland, Pinaud belongs to a relatively small group of contemporary artisans who approach watchmaking in its most traditional sense, designing, constructing and finishing their movements with an emphasis on hand craftsmanship rather than industrial production. Having previously worked as a watchmaker and restorer, his experience with historical mechanisms is particularly evident in the architecture and finishing of his creations, which combine classical watchmaking principles with a distinctly contemporary aesthetic. Pinaud first attracted widespread attention with his unusual Chronograph Monopoussoir, an ambitious, largely handmade chronograph featuring an exposed mechanism and an unconventional architectural layout. However, it was the introduction of the Origine in 2022 that would truly establish his reputation among collectors of independent watchmaking. Conceived as a time-only wristwatch, the Origine was designed to showcase the mechanical components ordinarily concealed beneath a conventional dial, with the regulating organ occupying a prominent position on the front of the watch. Its significance was further recognised when it received the Horological Revelation Prize at the 2022 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, an extraordinary achievement for such a small independent workshop. Here, we have the Origine in stainless steel, featuring a beautifully restrained silver dial. Measuring 40mm in diameter, the case adopts relatively classical proportions, with a smoothly polished bezel, gently sculpted lugs and a substantial winding crown. Unlike the more elaborate cases employed by some contemporary independents, Pinaud has deliberately kept the exterior relatively understated, allowing the dial and movement architecture to take centre stage. The dial is undoubtedly one of the most distinctive aspects of the Origine. Rather than adopting a conventional central time display, Pinaud has arranged the hours and minutes within an off-centre subsidiary dial at approximately 2 o'clock, with a smaller seconds counter positioned towards 10 o'clock. Both feature beautifully executed silver chapter rings with elongated black numerals and markings, complemented by delicate heat-blued steel hands. The classical typography and restrained detailing are particularly evocative of early twentieth-century pocket watches, providing a wonderful contrast against the considerably more contemporary arrangement of the dial. The remaining surface is finished in a finely textured, frosted silver-grey treatment, serving as a relatively neutral backdrop for the exposed mechanical components. Occupying the lower portion of the dial is the large free-sprung balance, suspended beneath a beautifully polished, elongated steel bridge. Its prominent position allows the oscillations of the regulating organ to be appreciated directly from the front, while the surrounding exposed wheels, jewels and polished screws introduce additional layers of mechanical detail. What makes the arrangement particularly successful is the clear separation between the various elements. The hours and minutes occupy the upper right, the subsidiary seconds sits towards the upper left, and the balance dominates the lower portion of the dial. Despite the apparent asymmetry, the composition feels remarkably balanced, with each component given sufficient space to be appreciated individually. Turning the watch over reveals the manually wound movement, conceived and constructed specifically for the Origine. Its architecture is firmly rooted in traditional haute horlogerie, with broad, beautifully shaped bridges, carefully executed internal angles, black-polished steel components and extensive hand-finishing throughout. Particularly impressive is the contrast between the frosted surfaces of the bridges and the highly polished bevels, which catch the light and emphasise the sculptural quality of the movement. Rather than concealing the mechanism beneath conventional decorative plates, Pinaud has arranged the components to make the movement's construction and finishing an integral part of the watch's appeal. Production of the Origine is extremely limited, reflecting the considerable amount of individual handwork involved in each example. Unlike larger independent manufactures that have gradually increased their output through more industrialised production methods, Pinaud continues to operate on a remarkably small scale, with much of the construction, assembly and finishing undertaken within his own workshop. What I find particularly appealing about the Origine is how successfully Pinaud has combined the traditional disciplines of classical watchmaking with an entirely original design. The asymmetrical dial, exposed balance and unconventional arrangement of the subsidiary displays could easily have resulted in an overly complicated appearance, yet the restrained silver palette and beautifully proportioned chapter rings bring everything together into a remarkably cohesive composition. The Origine is well within the new school of independent watchmaking, with an emphasis on simplicity and incredible hand finishing. With only 10-12 pieces made a year, this is an extremely rare watch with huge demand.