Rolex Submariner ref. 14060, Tritium Dial

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of what a watch looks like, there is a significant chance that they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, particularly in the first decade or so, with the R eference 14060 representing a very important time in the history of the model. The 14060 replaced the much-loved 5513 and like so many other references, this model underwent a series of changes over its roughly 22-year production run and is typically broken down into three different variants, each with their own appeal. The early pieces Tritium indices and handsets, whereas models produced after 1997-1998 introduced Luminova units. The third variant showed up around 2001 and actually features an updated Reference number, 14060M, but is generally regarded as part of the 14060 lineage. It is debated what the "M" actually stands for, but it is widely agreed that it's presence denoted the updated new Cal. 3130 movement within. The 14060 that we have here is from the very end of the Tritium era dating to circa 1996. It comes to us with a previously polished case that shows normal signs of wear throughout and retains thick and symmetrical lugs. There are some small blemishes present on the left case profile and on the bottom right lug profile. The bezel shows very faint polishing — more-likely 'sleeve polish' and shows normal signs of wear. The black aluminum insert shows very light wear and is in the early stages of fading to a deep navy blue, which is visible in sunlight. The pip has started changing to an attractive custard tone. The glossy black dial with its applied Tritium-filled white gold indices is virtually-flawless and shows no signs of 'stippling' or 'matting.' The correct Tritium handset matches perfectly to the naked eye and under UV inspection. It comes fitted to a robust solid-link Oyster bracelet with a fliplock clasp with diving extension. These early 14060s in particular are fantastic daily wearers — perhaps even perfect. The updated sapphire crystal and deep glossy black dial combined with more traditional features like the drilled lug holes, the Tritium elements, and the aluminum bezel inserts, amount to something that has a foot in the worlds of both modern and vintage. The very definition of neo-vintage. And of course, those classic, versatile case proportions with the symmetrical dial layout that only the Submariner has is an icon for good reason.