Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1500 Silver Underline Dial in 14k Yellow Gold, 1963

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date in 34mm debuted in the mid-1950s, following the introduction of the 36mm Datejust in 1945. It offered a slightly smaller alternative, combining the waterproof Oyster case, self-winding Perpetual movement and the signature Cyclops magnifying lens over the date window. The specimen at hand is crafted in 14k yellow gold, an unusual feature for Rolex. During the 1940s through the mid-1980s, Rolex produced 14k gold watches primarily for the North American market, where high import duties were imposed on 18k gold watches. By using 14k gold cases—often manufactured in the United States by case makers such as Star Watch Case Co. or D&A to Rolex specifications—the brand could significantly reduce the final retail cost for American customers. The case and smooth bezel are in wonderfully preserved condition and are complemented by a lovely silver dial with an especially interesting detail: a small “Underline” positioned just above the 6 o’clock marker. The term “Underline” refers to this small horizontal line printed on the dial, a feature found on various Rolex models during the early 1960s. Its exact production period varies according to the model, reference and dial configuration. Rolex never officially documented the meaning of the underline, which is part of what makes these dials so fascinating to collectors. The most widely accepted theory is that it relates to the transition in luminous materials during this period, as Rolex moved away from radium-based luminous compounds towards tritium. The underline should therefore not simply be interpreted as a universal “tritium” marking. Rolex used several different dial designations during this transitional period, and the precise meaning remains dependent on the specific reference, production period and dial configuration. What is certain is that underline dials were produced for a relatively limited period, making surviving examples particularly appealing to vintage Rolex collectors. Further adding to the character of this dial is its “Swiss” only designation, elegant applied hour markers and beautifully sharp dauphine hands.The watch comes on one of our Bulang and sons leather straps and is fitted with a plaque Rolex pin buckle. A charming and unusual Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, combining the warmth of 14k yellow gold with a beautifully preserved early-1960s dial and one of those subtle period details that makes vintage Rolex collecting so rewarding ! Specifications: Rolex Reference 1500 Oyster Perpetual Date 14kt yellow gold 34mm case , smooth bezel Serial 952xxx dating to 1963 Silver soleil finished dial , black text ,”Underline” Swiss only Dauphine hands Bulang and sons Leather strap with Rolex plaque buckle Fully serviced by our watchmaker