Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542, 'Bakelite' Bezel

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Rolex GMT-Master is one of the most historic and iconic watches the brand ever produced. Its origin dates back to a commission request by Pan American World Airways in the early 50’s for their fleet of pilots who needed access to different time zones. These pieces would feature a similar design to another watch that Rolex was developing around that time, the Submariner, but would include a fourth hand running on 24-hr time, and a bi-colored bezel insert to represent AM/PM times. Those colors, naturally, would be the PanAm colors: Red & Blue. Thus, in 1954, the Ref. 6542 GMT-Master was born. While wold-time watches and even GMTs were not a new invention, the way Rolex chose to answer the request by PanAm was incredibly novel while also being simple and an elegant. A useful feature integrated into a watch that could be worn everyday, rather than a purpose built design strictly for a specific use-case. The example that we have here dates to circa 1957 and comes to us in strong overall condition. The 37mm Oyster case has been professionally restored to factory specification, with gorgeous lug chamfers visible throughout and a thick, symmetrical lug profile. Inside, the black 'gilt' dial with the attractive outer 'chapter ring' retains much of its glossy surface, with some minor wear and 'stippling' on the lower half. The luminous plots are even in color throughout and the gilt text is nicely preserved. The handset with the correct 'small' GMT hand matches the dial nicely. This piece also comes fitted to its correct 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with a 'big logo' clasp. An incredibly rare find these days. And then, of course, there is the [truly] iconic bezel insert. As the story goes, the very earliest Radium 'bakelite' inserts were actually recalled by Rolex and swapped out within just a few years of production for the units that we have here, which are considered to be accepted as 'original.' Thankfully, this example retains its period 'bakelite' insert with Tritium luminous material within. When it comes to 6542s, the largest factor of pricing and value hinges on this sole component. 6542s offer a wearing experience different than any modern GMT-Master. The slightly smaller case diameter, the glossy nature of the bezel insert combined with the depth of the colors, and the glossy 'gilt' dial inside all amount to something very special that only this reference can deliver. This is a strong, well-rounded piece and we are always thrilled to have one offered here on the site.