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Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 1675) Gilt "Chapter Ring" Dial & PCG Case, 1960 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 1675) Gilt "Chapter Ring" Dial & PCG Case, 1960

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (maker)
Date
1960
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
RLXGMT1675-60
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (RLXGMT1675-60)
Catalogue title (original)
1960 Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 1675) Gilt "Chapter Ring" Dial & PCG Case (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number RLXGMT1675-60), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated 1960. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

The Rolex GMT-Master, a symbol of sophistication and versatility, has a storied history that dates back to 1954. It all started when Rolex received a request from Pan American Airways (Pan Am) to develop a technical pilot's watch capable of displaying two time zones simultaneously. With the advent of commercial transcontinental flights, Pan Am needed a watch for their long-haul international flight crews that would enable them to keep track of time in multiple locations. GMT, which stands for Greenwich Mean Time, is the universal time standard that regulates the world's clocks and is the basis for aviation planning and schedules. The Rolex GMT-Master has a fourth 24-hour hand that displays the same time zone as the standard 12-hour hand but on a 24-hour scale. This GMT hand allows wearers to set the watch to GMT or any other time zone and then adjust the offset using the rotating 24-hour bezel to display a second-time zone. This remarkable feature makes the Rolex GMT-Master a must-have for anyone who frequently travels across multiple time zones, allowing them to keep track of two time zones with ease and precision. The first few years of the reference 1675, the second GMT-Master reference to come from Rolex, saw rapid evolution in the model's design. This swift progression resulted in various iterations of the dial and case styles, all of which had minuscule production windows. This has become one of the most celebrated and documented eras for the Rolex GMT-Master and is generally referred to as the Gilt-era for Rolex. Stock # RLXGMT1675-60 Brand Rolex Style GMT-Master Model 1675 Serial 62XXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Glossy Black, Gilt "Chapter Ring" Millimeters 40 Bracelet Rolex "USA Made" Jubilee Bracelet W/ 50 End Pieces CASE & BRACELET The excellent pointed-crown-guard case retains thick and symmetrical lugs that feature broad chamfers with minimal signs of previous polishing, and the original shape of the crown guards remains intact. The case exhibits honest signs of light use throughout. The watch retains its original bottle-cap bezel, and the original red back "Pepsi" bezel insert has achieved a beautiful red-orange and denim blue fade. The watch comes on a "USA Made" Rolex oval-link Jubilee bracelet with correct 50 end pieces, and the bracelet retains 23 links that show normal stretch for the style and age of the bracelet and will fit up to a 7 3/4-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The original and very early black glossy gilt "chapter ring" dial features a beautiful vintage aesthetic with a subtle speckled tropical patina throughout. The dial does exhibit some gentle elements of age and subtle spidering that would be expected for the age of the watch; however, these elements mostly enhance the aesthetic value of the watch. The most notable element of age is a small section of hand drag directly underneath the handstack. The transitional strontium lume exhibits no visibly notable degradation when inspected under UV light and features a patina that ranges from dark brown to a golden-tan coloration. The original gilt hands have aged a shade light that the dial and exhibit no notable degradation under UV light inspection. The GMT hand appears to have been repainted red but is likely original to the watch and exhibits subtle aging that is consistent with the rest of the hands. The metallic date wheel is original with "open" 6's and 9's. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Military, pilot and travel watches

The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.

In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.

What to look for

  • Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
  • High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
  • 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
  • Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
  • Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
  • GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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