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Rolex Frosted “Triple Zero” Submariner, ref. 168000, 1988 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Rolex Frosted “Triple Zero” Submariner, ref. 168000, 1988

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (maker)
Date
1988
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
Stainless Steel
Stock no.
R812032
Credit line
Dealer listing, Grey & Patina (R812032)
Catalogue title (original)
1988 Rolex Frosted “Triple Zero” 168000 Submariner (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Grey & Patina (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number R812032), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated 1988. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Stainless Steel. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Grey & Patina

Triple 0 Submariners are exceptionally rare having believed to be made for only a few years as a transitional watch between the 16800 and 16610, as well as the first housed in 904L steel opposed to previous 316L. This 168000 is unique in reference and condition. The dial has warm patina on the lume markers and exhibits a frosted looking patina over the dial in certain lighting. Case is excellent and sharp. Dial: 168000 frosted dial, Gloss Black WGS, Creamy Lume Insert: Black Case: 40mm Stainless Steel, Excellent Condition Bracelet: 93150

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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