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Rolex Explorer II 1655 Mk1 dial "Straight Hand" Box and Paper Set, 1972 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Rolex Explorer II 1655 Mk1 dial "Straight Hand" Box and Paper Set, 1972

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (maker)
Date
1972
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 40 mm
Stock no.
W-3261
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3261)
Catalogue title (original)
Rolex Explorer II 1655 Mk1 dial "Straight Hand" Box and Paper Set (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3261), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated 1972. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 40 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

A bold sport The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, a favourite among collectors and enthusiasts, was introduced in 1971 and produced in several subtle variations over the years. These nuanced differences—particularly in the dial and bezel graphics—have contributed significantly to its desirability, making every iteration a sought-after piece in the vintage Rolex world. Unlike many of Rolex’s sports models, the Explorer II was originally conceived as a true tool watch, designed specifically for cave explorers—or "spelunkers." At the time of its release, it was far from a status symbol—quite the opposite of how it's perceived today. Offered here is an exceptional example and the earliest execution, the Mark 1. This piece still features the rare straight seconds hand—used before Rolex introduced the luminous “lollipop” tip in later versions—as well as a thick-font steel bezel that gives the watch a bold, unmistakable look. Both the case and bezel are in excellent, well-preserved condition, with sharp and fat lugs. The dial is truly standout, showcasing beautifully aged pumpkin patina, which is a incredible match with the iconic orange hand. This iconic orange 24-hour hand, slightly faded with time, is the first detail to draw your eye. The watch is fitted with a folded-link Oyster bracelet, reference 7836, complete with end links stamped 385 and a clasp marked 2/72. Adding to its rarity and appeal, this Explorer comes with its original inner and outer boxes, punched guarantee papers dated to a 1978 sale, a Rolex service card from 2015, and two booklets. Fully checked by our watchmaker, this vintage Explorer II is ready for whatever lies ahead. The reference 1655 remains one of the coolest—and arguably most underrated—matte-dial vintage Rolex sport watches out there. And this configuration, with its outstanding patina, straight white seconds hand, and perfectly faded orange 24-hour hand, hits all the right notes. It's one of the nicest we have had in many years and ticks all the boxes. We absolutely love it! Specifications : Rolex Reference 1655 Explorer II Steel 40mm case , 24 hours bezel Serial 305xxxx dating to 1972 Matte Mk 1 dial and “straight second hand “ Pumpkin patina on lume and slight faded orange hand Oyster bracelet( folded type ) reference 7836 and end links 385 Rare original Rolex inner “coffin “style inner and card board outer boxes Rolex 2015 service card and original punched guarantee paper stating a sale in 1978 & two booklets Fully checked by our watchmaker

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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