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Rolex Explorer I (Ref. 14270) "Tiffany & Co." Dial, 1991 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Rolex Explorer I (Ref. 14270) "Tiffany & Co." Dial, 1991

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (maker)
Date
1991
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 36 mm
Stock no.
RLXEXP14270-20
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (RLXEXP14270-20)
Catalogue title (original)
1991 Rolex Explorer I (Ref. 14270) "Tiffany & Co." Dial (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number RLXEXP14270-20), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated 1991. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

The Rolex Explorer 1 ref. 14270 was introduced by Rolex in 1989 as the successor to the ref. 1016. The Rolex Explorer 1 ref. 1016 was in production for 27 years and saw only minor updates to the dial and bracelet, the Ref. 1016 largely remained unchanged throughout its 27 years of production. The ref. 14270, however, was a massive technical update to the Explorer 1. The ref. 14270 received a more modern sapphire crystal, a new, faster-beating Rolex Cal. 1570, and then the Cal. 3000 movements. The updates also featured a more modern solid link bracelet with the later era bracelets receiving a smaller flip-lock clasp, and the most notable difference and update from a design visual perspective is a lacquered dial with applied white gold indices that were filled with tritium luminous material and then later with luminova. The Rolex Explorer ref. 14270 has quickly generated a cult-like following, especially the earlier examples that possess tritium-filled markers and hands. The Rolex Explorer I references bridges the gap between a dress watch and a sports watch. Without the crown guards and rotating bezels commonly found on sports models offered by Rolex, the Explorer I has a cleaner, sleeker profile while incorporating recognizable sports model features into the dial. The highly visible block indices, numerals at the 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 9 o'clock positions, and Submariner style triangle at the 12 o'clock position allow for readability under any conditions. The Submariner-style hands featured on the ref. 14270 adds to the unique feel and appearance. The Rolex Explorer blends the classic and timeless look of a 36mm Rolex Oyster style watch while offering a ruggedness and utilitarian feel that can be worn in the most formal and or casual settings. “Tiffany & Co.” signed Rolex watches are the elusive and forever desirable variants of our favorite models offered by the horological house. Beginning in the late 1950s, Tiffany & Co. began printing their name on the dials of watches from various Swiss brands that were sold through their retail locations. Though they worked with a variety of brands in this era, the “Tiffany & Co.” co-branded Rolex are by far the most talked about, well-known, and collected amongst the lot, and for good reason. The relationship between Tiffany and Rolex carried on until the 1990s when Tiffany & Co. entered into an exclusive partnership with Patek Philippe. Interestingly, the Tiffany & Co. logos were printed by hand at the Tiffany Location in New York City, not by Rolex. SPECS Stock # RLXEXP14270-20 Brand Rolex Style Explorer I Model 14270 Serial X4XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Glossy Black "Tiffany & Co." Millimeters 36 Bracelet Rolex 78360 Oyster Bracelet w/ 558B End Pieces CASE & BRACELET The strong case remains thick and symmetrical luge with evidence of only gentle polishing in the past and gentle signs of use. The smooth stainless steel bezel is in wonderful condition with subtle wear from use. The Rolex 78360 Oyster bracelet with 558B end pieces retains 13 links that show minimal stretch and will fit up to a 7 3/4-inch wrist DIAL & HANDS The original glossy black "Tiffany & Co." co-branded Explorer dial with white gold surround markers is in beautifully preserved vintage condition, featuring no damage and a subtle patina to the dial that is only visible at certain angles, further developing the "look closer" flair of the watch. The text on the dial is all fully intact and in excellent condition, including the "Tiffany & Co." printing. The tritium lume plots have achieved a charming creamy patina with no degradation present under UV light inspection. The original tritium hands have aged a shade lighter than the dial, which is expected in this era, and under UV light inspection the second's hand features some minor superficial cracking while the hour and minute hand remain fully intact. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, the previous service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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