Skip to content
Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038, Oxblood 'Stella' Dial Retailed by Van Cleef & Arpels — view 1 of 6
View 1 of 6 · Image: Oliver & Clarke · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038, Oxblood 'Stella' Dial Retailed by Van Cleef & Arpels

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (maker)
Date
c. 1979
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
OC2552
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2552)
Catalogue title (original)
Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038 - Oxblood 'Stella' Dial Retailed by Van Cleef & Arpels Unpolished (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2552), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1979. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

When the Day-Date was released in 1956, Rolex had made numerous attempts to capture the market with more complicated timepieces such as the Ref. 6036, the Ref. 8171, and the Ref. 6062, but it seemed like buyers were not particularly fond of complicated Rolexes. All of that changed when President Dwight D. Eisenhower was spotted wearing one Rolex in particular: a Day-Date. The model has since become known worldwide as ‘The President’ and as a symbol of success and prestige. Simply put, this one stuck. The Day-Date was available for many years on a leather strap with a matching gold buckle, but also on a solid gold bracelet (called a 'President' bracelet), like the example that we have here. However, this isn't your run of the mill Day-Date... The piece that we have here features a highly elusive dial that is part of a sub-family of Day-Dates produced with what collectors call, 'Stella Dials.' It is believed that these colorful dials were named after the famous artist Frank Stella to honor his vibrant paintings, or another theory: named after the Latin word for star which is also “Stella.” These dials are as rare as they are beautiful to behold and were sold for a very limited time, in part due to the complexity to produce them. They were handmade by artisans who painstakingly applied many layers of lacquer, which give these dials their iconic depth. The process was so complex, that many dials cracked during manufacturing leading to their rarity. This example is a Reference 18038 dating to circa 1979 and comes to us in outstanding overall condition. The case, matching 'President' bracelet, and characteristic 'fluted' yellow gold bezel all remain in unpolished condition and show just light signs of wear throughout with no apparent damage. The stunning lacquered 'oxblood' dial inside is beautifully preserved and free of any fractures. The Tritium plots remain fully-intact, are evenly patinated, and match the handset perfectly. Last but not least, this piece features a small stock engraving on the inner clasp, part of which reads "VCA" which in the world of watches and jewelry denotes that this piece was retailed by Van Cleef & Arpels. A very, very cool cherry on top of an already impressive piece. Never in short demand, Stella-dialed pieces have always been coveted as some of the more collectible vintage Rolexes, full stop. This one has some extra spice and we'll bet you don't see another anytime soon.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches

Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.

Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.

What to look for

  • Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
  • Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
  • Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.

Dating clues

  • Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
  • Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Related records