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Rolex Datejust Two-Tone, c. 1987

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (maker)
Date
c. 1987
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
two-tone
Dimensions
Case 36 mm
Stock no.
40920454
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40920454)
Catalogue title (original)
Rolex Datejust Two-Tone (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40920454), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1987. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: two-tone. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Why We Love it So-called “five digit” Datejusts (reference variants with five digit internal coding) evolved from the original Oyster Perpetual Datejust line and are a quintessential staple of the Neo-Vintage era. These models showed up in the late 70s and offer the added functionality of a higher-beat movement for accuracy and a quick-set date mechanism. They retain the classic 36mm case proportion of their predecessors and have similar variation for dial, bezel, and bracelet configurations. Luminous models also retain Tritium material, offering tremendous opportunities for unique characteristics of patina. This particular example, a Reference 16233, dates to circa 1987 and features a Two-Tone 18K and stainless steel Oyster case with matching solid link Jubilee bracelet, a stunning and flawless glossy black dial with applied baton indices, an 18K yellow gold fluted bezel and matching 18k yellow gold handset. It remains in absolutely fantastic condition all around, featuring a sharp case, a near-perfect bracelet, an intact factory caseback sticker, and its books & papers! These timepieces are incredibly versatile for everyday use, and can easily be dressed-up for formal occasions or dressed-down and worn as a sporty everyday companion. The Datejust Story We've said it over and over again - the Datejust may just be the perfect watch. Coupling perfect proportions, simple dial layouts, and robust movements, Rolex's most prolific model is an icon of timekeeping that has been in continuous production for decades. Moreover, the Datejust is all the watch that just about any of us really need . The beauty of the Datejust is that it is the ultimate do-anything, go-anywhere watch. Equal parts sporty and dressy, the Datejust wears just as well with jeans as it does with a suit, and thanks to the signature Oyster case and tough-as-nails movement, it’s ready for anything that you can throw at it. In production continuously since 1945, the original Datejust was the world's first wristwatch to incorporate a date disc and aperture at the 3:00 position. Since then, date windows at 3:00 have become commonplace, and the Rolex cyclops magnifier bubble has become a hallmark of the brand. Datejusts have proudly been worn by presidents, athletes and movie stars (and probably your grandfather), in a testament to how timeless and versatile the watch truly is. While recent horological trends have favored larger sporty wristwatches, the age of the giant watch is drawing to a close, making more reasonably sized watches like the original Datejust, a pleasantly stylish option that fits the bill in every setting. There's a magic to the Datejust's simple design, a timelessness that proves that true style never dies.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches

Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.

Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.

What to look for

  • Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
  • Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
  • Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.

Dating clues

  • Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
  • Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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