
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Rolex Datejust 16220 Khanjar Case-back, Khanjar Box and Paper Set, 1999
- Maker / attribution
- Rolex (maker)
- Date
- 1999
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 36 mm
- Stock no.
- W-3640
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3640)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Rolex Datejust 16220 Khanjar Case-back, Khanjar Box and Paper Set (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3640), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated 1999. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
If you have spent any serious time around vintage watches, you have likely noticed that some dials feature more than just a brand signature and model name. From time to time, an unexpected emblem appears — a crest, a logo, or even a national symbol — transforming an already desirable timepiece into something layered with historical and political significance. These special-order pieces often surface at leading dealers or headline major auction catalogs, where they consistently spark strong interest among collectors. One of the most recognized of these emblems is the Khanjar of Oman — the traditional curved dagger set before crossed swords. Adopted as a national symbol in 1970, it became closely associated with the reign of Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said. During his five-decade rule, which lasted until 2020, Oman developed into a stable and internationally respected nation. Watches bearing the Khanjar reflect the unique relationship between the Sultan and some of Switzerland’s most prestigious manufactures. Often commissioned as presentation pieces or official gifts, they represent a fascinating intersection of horology, diplomacy, and modern Middle Eastern history. At a certain point, Rolex decided to discontinue the production of custom-printed dials. As a result, the Khanjar emblem moved from the dial to the case-back. At hand we have a classic and ever-relevant Datejust, reference 16220, housed in a timeless 36 mm stainless steel case with a beautifully machined steel bezel. The case remains strong and well-defined, retaining its proportions nicely, and the engraved Khanjar on the case back is still exceptionally crisp and sharp. The elegant silver soleil dial is in excellent condition, featuring black printed text with refined serifs. A charming railway minute track with small Roman numerals adds a subtle touch of sophistication. The watch is fitted with a Jubilee bracelet, reference 62150H, with end links marked 555B and a clasp stamped U10. Included in the sale are the inner and outer Rolex boxes with crest, three booklets, and a special envelope printed with the Khanjar emblem and the text: “With the compliments of Qaboos Bin Saïd, Sultan of Oman”and the Punched paper stating sale through AD Khimji Ramdas Mascate. The watch and its quickset movement have been fully serviced by our watchmaker. A wonderful opportunity to acquire a historically significant and highly collectible Datejust — understated at first glance, yet rich in meaning and provenance. Specifications: Rolex Reference 16220 Datejust 36mm steel case, Sapphire crystal Steel engine turned bezel Serial a16xxxx dating to 1999 Silver soleil dial with black printed text Quick set movement “Khanjar” engraved on the case-back Jubilee bracelet 62150H with 555b end links Rolex inner and outer boxes, 3 booklets, envelope printed with the Khanjar emblem Punched warrantee paper stating sale through AD Khimji Ramdas, Mascate Fully serviced by our watchmaker
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches
Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.
Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.
What to look for
- Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
- Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
- Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.
Dating clues
- Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
- Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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