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Piaget Cocktail Watch 18K YG (Ref. 9005 DB) Fire Opal & Pave Diamond Dial, 1970s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Piaget Cocktail Watch 18K YG (Ref. 9005 DB) Fire Opal & Pave Diamond Dial, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Piaget (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
PG9005DB
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (PG9005DB)
Catalogue title (original)
1970s Piaget Cocktail Watch 18K YG (Ref. 9005 DB) Fire Opal & Pave Diamond Dial W/ Box (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number PG9005DB), this is a wristwatch by Piaget, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Piaget is widely celebrated as being one of the most creative and esoteric watchmakers, with a deep foundation in Swiss watchmaking as the brand was established in 1874. The avant-garde approach to design isn't without a rigorous dedication to quality, which is expressed through the brand's inherent comprehension of what high luxury and fine watchmaking truly are. The ref. 9005 DB is a true representation of the Piaget design ethos in the 1970s, with the melding of precious materials, semi-precious stones, and diamonds which are then finished to a degree that is now all but lost in watchmaking. The result is a demure cocktail-style wristwatch featuring a stunning fire opal dial with an inlaid pave diamond sub-dial, and an integrated ribbon strap design. Piaget is also known for being a mechanical powerhouse as well and this ref. 9005 DB employs the in-house cal. 9P2 mechanical winding movement. SPECS Stock # PG9005DB Brand Piaget Style Cocktail Dress Watch Model 9005 DB Serial 31XXXX Size Women's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Fire Opal & Pave Diamonds Millimeters 30 Bracelet Piaget Integrated 18K Yellow Gold, Diamond, & Ribbon Strap CASE & BRACELET The classically round and ultra-thin 18K yellow gold case with a factory diamond-set bezel is only 5.2mm thick and remains in excellent condition, exhibiting minimal signs of use and no notable evidence of polishing in the past. The unique crescent moon lugs are factory diamond-set as well, and remain in excellent condition, showing minimal warping from previous wear. The diamond-set crescent moon motif is continued through the integrated ribbon strap design and buckle, which also remain in excellent condition. The ribbon portion of the watch strap is original and exhibits light wear which is expected and the watch will fit between a 5 3/4-inch and 6 1/2-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The original and truly stunning fire opal dial is virtually flawless, exhibiting no cracks or damage, though the gold printing of the Piaget text has slightly faded which is common for stone dials in this era. The factory pave diamond-set center dial is also in perfect condition. The original solid yellow gold dauphine hands exhibit minor oxidation and remain in excellent overall condition. ACCESSORIES The watch comes with its original Piaget coffin-style box. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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