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Patek Philippe Two-Tone Nautilus (Ref. 3800/1), 1988 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Two-Tone Nautilus (Ref. 3800/1), 1988

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1988
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
two-tone
Dimensions
Case 42 mm
Stock no.
PPNLTT3800
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (PPNLTT3800)
Catalogue title (original)
1988 Patek Philippe Two-Tone Nautilus (Ref. 3800/1) W/ Extract From Archive (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number PPNLTT3800), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1988. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: two-tone. Recorded dimensions: Case 42 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Designed by Gerald Genta, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is a 1970s icon. Although the Patek Nautilus reference 3700 AKA the “jumbo” case, with its 42mm diameter case, was the initial Gerald Genta design offered by Patek it appeared that the market at that time wasn't ready for a watch that that large in size. In 1981 while the 3700 was still in production, Patek decided to introduce a slightly smaller version of the Nautilus reference to gain traction commercial viability via reference 3800/1. Apart from the physical size difference of 37.5mm, the Patek Phillipe 3800/1 carries with it many similar design traits as its bigger brother with a monobloc case, an integrated bracelet that tapers to the buckle, and the iconic rounded octagonal bezel. Aside from the case size, the most obvious difference is the addition of a sweep second hand which is of course not seen in the 3700 series. There is also a subtle difference in the font of the date wheel. In 1981 Patek Philippe acknowledged its critics, by presenting a watch that was more in line with its typical luxury design standards with the ref. 3800. The Nautilus is a design icon and has set the standard for the perfect anywhere anytime style of watch that could pair with the formalist of formal to the casualist of casual. Stock # PPNLTT3800 Brand Patek Philippe Style Nautilus Model 3800/1 Serial 2,8XX,XXX Size Men's Material SS/ 18K YG Dial Champagne Millimeters 37.5mm Bracelet Patek Integrated Steel Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The two-tone case remains in found condition, showing original factory finishing and case geometry with honest wear and patina from use. The crystal is factory and shows no scratches or blemishes. The two-tone bracelet shows some stretch from use. DIAL & HANDS The original gilded champagne dial with yellow gold markers remains fully intact showing no wear or blemishes. The original tritium filled hands and markers show no degradation when inspected under UV light. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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