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Patek Philippe (Ref. 5196J) 18k YG, 2000s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe (Ref. 5196J) 18k YG, 2000s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
2000s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 37 mm
Stock no.
PP5196J
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (PP5196J)
Catalogue title (original)
2000s Patek Philippe (Ref. 5196J) 18k YG (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number PP5196J), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 2000s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 37 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Patek Philippe introduced the "Calatrava" to the world with ref. 96 in 1932. The modernist design was to embody Bauhaus simplicity and became the front runner for one of the most iconic dress watch designs of all time. Continuing the tradition as the reincarnation of the original ref. 96, but updated for a more modern appeal, the ref. 5196J feels just as satisfying. The 5196J features a much more substantial case at 37mm and is powered by the Patek Philippe 215 PS in-house movement, but retains everything else that propelled the ref. 96 into stardom. From the beautiful silvery dial with applied gold markers, the small sweep-seconds hand, the tapered lugs that resemble the original, and the dauphine-style hour and minute hands all make for a timeless design that will be enjoyed for generations to come. There is the saying that “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” and we think this couldn't be truer especially with Patek Philippe references such as the Patek Philippe ref. 5196J. Stock # PP5196J Brand Patek Philippe Style Calatrava Model 5196J Serial 59XXXXX/61XXXXX Size Men's Material 18k YG Dial Silver w/ Applied Markers Millimeters 37 Bracelet Original Patek Philippe Brown Crocodile Strap W/ 18k YG Patek Philippe buckle CASE & BRACELET The unpolished 18k yellow gold case is in extremely well-preserved condition, retaining its factory brushing on the case sides and clean lugs, showing only very light signs of use. The 18k yellow gold bezel is also in excellent condition showing little signs of use. The watch retains its original crown featuring the Patek Philippe insignia. The case back also remains is untouched condition. The watch comes on its original Patek Philippe crocodile strap with its original 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle. DIAL & HANDS The silver opaline dial with gold applied markers is absolutely flawless, showing no imperfections at all. The original 18k yellow gold dauphine hands remain flawless as well. ACCESSORIES The watch comes with its original Patek Philippe brown crocodile strap and 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe Buckle. The watch is keeping time and running flawlessly but extended service history is unknown.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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