
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Patek Philippe Officer’s Calatrava, ref. 3960J, circa 1989
- Maker / attribution
- Patek Philippe (maker)
- Date
- c. 1989
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Diameter 33 mm
- Stock no.
- CUR505
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Watches of Knightsbridge (CUR505)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Patek Philippe Officer’s Calatrava 3960J (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London (stock number CUR505), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1989. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 33 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge
Patek Philippe Officer’s Calatrava 150th Anniversary model, reference 3960J circa 1989. This stunning model features a 33mm yellow gold case with hinged officer‑style back and porcelain white dial with Breguet numerals & hands. The 3960J stands out as a timeless and highly collectible piece.
Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge
Reference: 3960J; Movement: Manual Wind, Cal. 215; Case diameter: 33mm; Bracelet/strap: Patek Philippe Leather Strap & Yellow Gold Pin Buckle
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Military, pilot and travel watches
The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.
In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.
What to look for
- Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
- High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
- 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
- Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
- Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
- GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Related records
Clocks · 1965–1975
Quartz master clock QM 1, with movement by Patek Phillippe, Switzerland, 1965–1975. Supplied by English Clock Systems.
Science Museum Group, London
Instruments · 1965–1984
Chronometer by Patek Philippe and Kelvin Hughes, England, 1965–1984
Science Museum Group, London
Pocket Watches · c. 1895
Patek Philippe pocket watch, c. 1895
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Pocket Watches · c. 1900
Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo, c. 1900
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · 1970
Wristwatch by Heno, Switzerland, 1970
Museum Rotterdam
Wristwatches · 1960–1986
'Tri-Compax' calendar chronograph wristwatch in gold case, by Universal, Geneva, Switzerland, 1960–1986.
Science Museum Group, London
Wristwatches · 1969–1970
Beta 21 Quartz wristwatch movement, made in Switzerland, 1970.
Science Museum Group, London
Wristwatches · c. 1969
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, ref. 145022-69st, c. 1969
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
