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Patek Philippe Nautilus (Ref. 3800J) 18K YG, 1980s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Nautilus (Ref. 3800J) 18K YG, 1980s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1980s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 42 mm
Stock no.
PPNL3800J
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (PPNL3800J)
Catalogue title (original)
1980s Patek Philippe Nautilus (Ref. 3800J) 18K YG (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number PPNL3800J), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 42 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Designed by Gerald Genta, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is a 1970s icon. Although the Patek Nautilus reference 3700 AKA the “jumbo” case, with its 42mm diameter case, was the initial Gerald Genta design offered by Patek it appeared that the market at that time wasn't ready for a watch that that large in size. In 1981 while the 3700 was still in production, Patek decided to introduce a slightly smaller version of the Nautilus reference to gain traction commercial viability via reference 3800/1. Apart from the physical size difference of 37.5mm, the Patek Phillipe 3800/1 carries with it many similar design traits as its bigger brother with a monobloc case, an integrated bracelet that tapers to the buckle, and the iconic rounded octagonal bezel. Aside from the case size, the most obvious difference is the addition of a sweep second hand which is of course not seen in the 3700 series. There is also a subtle difference in the font of the date wheel. In 1981 Patek Philippe acknowledged its critics, by presenting a watch that was more in line with its typical luxury design standards with the ref. 3800. The Nautilus is a design icon and has set the standard for the perfect anywhere anytime style of watch that could pair with the most formal of formal to the most casual of casual. Stock # PPNL3800J Brand Patek Philippe Style Nautilus Model 3800J Serial N/A Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Blue Millimeters 37.5 Bracelet Patek Integrated 18K YG Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The gorgeous 18k yellow gold case appears to have been very lightly polished in the past and shows extremely clean brushing, angles, and chamfers throughout with only minimal signs of previous use. The bezel remains clean showing almost no signs of use and retains crisp finishing and angles. The case retains its original unsigned Patek Philippe winding crown. The integrated 18k yellow gold bracelet retains a total of 23 links that display no stretch from use. The hallmarks remain deep and preset throughout the case and clasp. DIAL & HANDS The beautiful gilded blue dial is a work of horological art, perfectly contrasting the gold of the case, dial markers, and hands. The dial itself exhibits no imperfections or age. The tritium markers have aged to a lovely creamy coloration and display no degradation under U.V. light inspection. The original tritium hands match the dial perfectly and display no visible degradation when inspected under U.V. light. ACCESSORIES None.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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