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Patek Philippe Nautilus 18K YG (Ref. 3800J) Silver "Wabi-Sabi" Dial, 1980s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Nautilus 18K YG (Ref. 3800J) Silver "Wabi-Sabi" Dial, 1980s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1980s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
silver
Dimensions
Case 42 mm
Stock no.
PPNL3800J-2
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (PPNL3800J-2)
Catalogue title (original)
1980s Patek Philippe Nautilus 18K YG (Ref. 3800J) Silver "Wabi-Sabi" Dial (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number PPNL3800J-2), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver. Recorded dimensions: Case 42 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Designed by Gerald Genta, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is a 1970s icon. Although the Nautilus reference 3700, AKA the 42mm diameter “jumbo” case model, was the original Genta design offered by Patek Philippe. The result of the underachieving release determined that the watch enthusiast market wasn't ready for a watch that large, at that time. In 1981 while the 3700 was still in production, Patek Philippe acknowledged its critics, by presenting a watch that was more in line with its typical luxury design standards by introducing a slightly smaller version of the Nautilus reference to gain commercial viability traction via reference 3800/1. Apart from the physical size difference of 37.5mm, the Patek Phillipe ref. 3800/1 carries with it many similar design traits as its bigger brother with a monobloc case, an integrated bracelet that tapers to the buckle, and the iconic rounded octagonal bezel. Aside from the case size, the most obvious difference is the addition of a sweep second hand which is of course not seen in the ref. 3700 series. There is also a subtle difference in the font of the date wheel. The Nautilus is a design icon and has set the standard for the perfect anywhere anytime style of watch that could pair with the most formal of formal to the most casual of casual. Stock # PPNL3800J-2 Brand Patek Philippe Style Nautilus Model 3800J Serial N/A Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Silver "Aged" Millimeters 37.5 Bracelet Patek Philippe 18K Yellow Gold Integrated Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The strong and well-preserved 18K yellow gold case retains crisp angles and chamfers throughout, showing minimal evidence of previous polishing present with honest signs of use present. The bezel is in excellent condition overall with strong finishing present and honest wear like the case. The integrated 18k yellow gold bracelet retains a total of 22 links that show very minimal stretch and will fit up to a 6 3/4-inch wrist. The hallmarks remain deep and preset throughout the case and clasp. DIAL & HANDS The silver dial for this reference is much rarer in comparison to the commonly seen gilded blue dial, and while this specific example isn't perfect, having achieved a very unique patina, it perfectly represents the 'Wabi-Sabi' philosophy of beauty in imperfections. The dial features a charming green speckling throughout the center of the dial and within the Calatrava-style drilled minute track. The tritium lume plots at the end of each hour marker have taken on an olive-colored patina and all remain intact, with only the 11 o'clock plot displaying very minor degradation. The yellow gold hands are OEM Patek Philippe luminova service units that feature a slight eggshell color and match the overall aesthetic of the watch nicely. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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