
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Patek Philippe Gold Calatrava Gübelin-Signed (Ref. 3796D), 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Patek Philippe (maker)
- Date
- 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- gold
- Dimensions
- Case 31 mm
- Stock no.
- Product 8287374442679
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8287374442679)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1990s Patek Philippe Gold Calatrava Gübelin-Signed (Ref. 3796D) (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8287374442679), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 31 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Huntington Company
History and Significance The Patek Philippe Calatrava 3796D is a faithful descendant of the original reference 96, the model that established the Calatrava line as the benchmark of understated elegance. The “D” in its reference denotes the Clous de Paris or hobnail bezel, a design signature that adds texture and depth to the small 31mm yellow gold case. This example is further distinguished by a rare Gübelin retailer signature on the dial, an indication that it was originally sold through the renowned Swiss retailer, known for its close historical relationship with Patek Philippe. Such double-signed dials are highly regarded by collectors for their added provenance and rarity. Writer’s Thoughts Despite its modest size, the 3796D wears with quiet authority. Its balanced proportions, crisp hobnail bezel, and Gübelin signature give it both historical significance and subtle charm. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Calatrava 3796D Gübelin-Signed Year: 1990s Case Material: 18k Yellow Gold Case Size: 31mm diameter, 18mm lug width Bezel: Hobnail ( Clous de Paris ) gold bezel Dial: White with Roman numerals, Gübelin retailer signature Crystal: Sapphire Movement: Manual wind, Caliber 215 Strap: Original brown alligator leather strap Buckle/Clasp: Original 18k gold buckle Contents: Box Condition Case: Good overall with visible hallmarks Bezel: Sharp hobnail detailing with minor wear ; one small nick on the bezel edge near 8 o’clock Crystal: Clean and free of scratches Dial: Excellent condition with crisp printing and Gübelin signature Hands: Blackened stick hands with light oxidation visible only under certain light Strap: Original alligator strap showing light wear Buckle: Original Patek Philippe 18k yellow gold buckle in good condition
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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