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Patek Philippe Ellipse “Manta Ray”, ref. 3858J, circa 1980s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Ellipse “Manta Ray”, ref. 3858J, circa 1980s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
c. 1980s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18K Yellow-Gold
Dimensions
Diameter 31 mm
Stock no.
CUR535
Credit line
Dealer listing, Watches of Knightsbridge (CUR535)
Catalogue title (original)
Patek Philippe Ellipse “Manta Ray” 3858J (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London (stock number CUR535), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18K Yellow-Gold. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 31 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge

The Patek Philippe “Manta Ray” Ref. 3858J is a rare and captivating interpretation of the iconic Golden Ellipse, distinguished by its distinctive flared “Manta Ray” case in 18k yellow gold. Produced in the late 1970s, this elegant dress watch pairs a refined champagne Sigma dial with the renowned manually wound Calibre 215, embodying Patek Philippe’s exceptional craftsmanship and understated sophistication. Highly sought after by collectors, the Ref. 3858J is a unique blend of sculptural design, vintage charm, and timeless horology.

Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge

Reference: 3858J; Metal: 18K Yellow-Gold; Movement: Manual Cal. 215; Case diameter: 31mm by 34mm; Bracelet/strap: Black Leather Strap w/ Patek Philippe Gold Ellipse Pin Buckle

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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