Patek Philippe Calatrava Silver Dial in 18K Rose Ref. 3796 Box and Certificate of Origin, early 1990s

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

In 1932, Patek Philippe & Cie—the brand’s official name at the time—introduced what would become one of the most iconic wristwatches in horological history: the Calatrava, more precisely, Reference 96. Widely regarded as the benchmark for all dress watches that followed, the Calatrava took its name from the Calatrava Cross, the emblem of the Spanish military order Orden de Calatrava. Reference 96 was the inaugural model in this legendary line, its design embodying modern elegance through a minimalist aesthetic, deeply rooted in the Bauhaus philosophy that “form follows function.” Offered here is a beautiful example of Reference 3796 in 18K rose gold—a quintessential dress watch and the 1980s reinterpretation of the iconic Ref. 96. Produced between 1982 and 1999, the Ref. 3796 stayed true to the original’s spirit, even as the Calatrava family expanded significantly. It retained hallmark design features, such as the elegant 31 mm case diameter and the refined, tapered lugs that reflect the timeless charm of its predecessor. Though the 31 mm diameter may seem modest by modern standards, the slightly elongated and gracefully curved lugs lend the watch a more substantial wrist presence than the measurements might suggest. The silver dial—described by Patek Philippe as “argenté”—features an applied dot minute track, small seconds sub-dial, faceted hour markers, and is elegantly finished with sharp dauphine hands. Notably, the dial has no lume, staying true to the pure dress watch aesthetic. This classic piece is paired with a handsome leather strap and comes fitted with its original 18K rose gold Patek Philippe pin buckle. Completing the package are the original Patek Philippe presentation box, leather document holder, accompanying booklet, and the original Certificate of Origin, noting a sale date in 1990. Powering the watch is the hand-wound Caliber 215, which has been fully serviced by our watchmaker and is running beautifully. Don’t hesitate to get in touch to discuss this elegant "Argenté" Calatrava! Specifications: - Patek Philippe Reference 3796 Calatrava - 31mm 18K yellow gold case with snap-back case - Silver dial (or “Argenté”) with no lume and small running seconds - No lume dauphine hands - Hand-wound Caliber 215 - Coming on a leather strap with 18K rose gold pin buckle - Movement serial 181xxxx, case no. 287xxxx dating to the early 1990s - Original Patek Philippe box, leather document holder, booklet - Certificate of Origin stating a sale in 1990 - Fully serviced by our watchmaker