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Patek Philippe Calatrava Salmon Dial (Ref. 3796S), 1996 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Calatrava Salmon Dial (Ref. 3796S), 1996

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1996
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 31 mm
Stock no.
Product 8529767137463
Credit line
Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8529767137463)
Catalogue title (original)
1996 Patek Philippe Calatrava Salmon Dial - Box and Papers (Ref. 3796S) (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8529767137463), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1996. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 31 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Huntington Company

History and Significance The reference 3796 is often considered one of the last truly traditional Calatrava references before case sizes and design language began to shift. At 31mm, it stays faithful to the original Calatrava proportions that defined the model for decades. Thin, restrained, and purpose-built as a dress watch, it reflects Patek Philippe at its most classical. This particular example takes that foundation a step further. The “S” designation indicates the limited-edition model, which also has a sapphire caseback, not standard across all 3796 production. That detail alone makes it more interesting from a collector standpoint, offering a view into the manual wind caliber that is typically hidden behind a solid back on earlier references. The standout here is the dial. Salmon dials from Patek Philippe are already uncommon, but this Japan-exclusive configuration adds another layer of rarity. The tone is soft and even, paired with faceted applied markers and dauphine hands that catch light in a very subtle way. Combined with the limited production and complete set, it sits firmly in the category of watches that collectors actively search for rather than casually come across. Writer’s Thoughts This is a watch where everything comes together perfectly. The size, the dial color, and the proportions all feel very intentional and very Patek. It’s also one of those pieces that only really makes sense once you’ve handled a few Calatravas and understand how uncommon this configuration is. The salmon dial gives it just enough personality without taking away from how traditional it is. Having the full set with the original white gold buckle is a big plus here, too. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Calatrava (Ref. 3796S) Year: 1996 Case Material: White gold Case Size: 30.5mm Dial: Salmon dial with applied markers Movement: Manual wind Patek Philippe caliber 215 PS Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap Buckle/Clasp: Original Patek Philippe white gold buckle Contents: Complete set with box, papers, and accessories Condition Case: The case is in excellent condition with light signs of wear, appearing well-preserved with strong lines. Dial: Dial is clean and even with no visible imperfections; salmon tone remains consistent throughout. Hands: Clean with no visible wear. Crystal: Sapphire crystal is clean with no scratches. Strap/Bracelet: Strap is new with no wear; original white gold buckle included.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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