Patek Philippe Calatrava 3820J Silver Dial Applied Breguet Numerals in 18k yellow gold with Original Certificate of Origine, c. 1989

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

Presented in 1932, amid the challenges of the Great Depression, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 signaled a new direction for Patek Philippe. Drawing clear inspiration from the Bauhaus doctrine of “form follows function,” it became the firm’s first serially produced wristwatch and introduced a restrained, contemporary aesthetic at a time when ornate pocket watches still dominated. Named after the 12th-century Spanish Order of Calatrava, it has since come to define the archetype of the classic dress watch. The example offered here captures that philosophy perfectly—a quintessential Calatrava shaped by clarity, proportion, and understatement—crafted in 18k yellow gold. The 32 mm case is fitted with a screw-down case back and elegant teardrop lugs, a graceful design element that distinguishes it from many other references and lends the watch a refined, flowing silhouette. Its silvered dial is harmoniously laid out, featuring applied Breguet-style numerals—an especially charming detail—complemented by matching Breguet-style hands without lume. Sigma signatures flank the six o’clock position, while an applied dot minute track subtly enlivens the overall composition. The watch is paired with a lovely leather strap, and an original 18k Patek Philippe pin buckle attached . This fine Calatrava is acompanied with its original certificate of origine, stating a sale in 1989 and 2 booklets and its leather paper holder. The watch and its hand wound cal. 177 has been fully serviced and by our watch maker. For those who appreciate the poetry of Breguet numerals and the elegance of teardrop lugs—do get in touch to discuss! Specifications: Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3820J 32mm 18k yellow gold case with “tear drop” lugs and screw down case back Silvered dial with applied Breguet numerals and non-lumed Breguet style hands Leather strap, 18 k gold Patek Pin buckle attached Cal. 177 manually wound movement Movement no. 1371042, dating to circa 1989 Fully serviced by our watchmaker