Patek Philippe Calatrava 3820J Silver Breguet Dial Tear Drop Lugs in 18k Yellow Gold, c. 1989

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

Introduced in 1932 during the Great Depression, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 was heavily influenced by the German Bauhaus principle of “form follows function.” As Patek Philippe’s first serially produced wristwatch, it played a crucial role in the company’s survival by offering a modern, minimalist alternative to ornate pocket watches. Named after the 12th-century Spanish Order of Calatrava, it remains the benchmark for the classic dress watch. Here we have exactly that spirit—a true Calatrava rooted in Bauhaus ideals, where form follows function—executed in 18k yellow gold. The 32 mm case features a screw-down case back and elegant “teardrop” (or “drop”) lugs, a detail that distinguishes it from many other Calatrava references and adds a subtle touch of sophistication to the profile. The silvered dial is beautifully balanced, showcasing applied Breguet-style numerals—one of our favourite details—paired with matching Breguet-style hands without lume. Sigma markings flank the six o’clock position, and an applied dot minute track frames the dial with some “pop”. This classic example is fitted with a handsome Bulang & Sons leather strap. An original 18k Patek pin buckle is included in the sale as well. It is powered by the hand-wound Patek Philippe caliber 177, fully checked and regulated by our watchmaker, and ready to be enjoyed for years to come. If you appreciate understated elegance and historically important design, this Calatrava deserves your attention. Get in touch with us for further details or to arrange a viewing! Specifications: Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3720J 32mm 18k yellow gold case with “tear drop “lugs and screw down case back Silvered dial with applied Breguet numerals and non-lumed Breguet style hands Bulang and sons leather strap, 18 k gold Patek Pin buckle included in the sale. Cal.177 hand wound movement Case no 282xxx movement no 136xxxx, dating to circa 1989 Fully serviced by our watchmaker