
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Patek Philippe Calatrava 18k White Gold Clous de Paris ref. 5120G, early 2000
- Maker / attribution
- Patek Philippe (maker)
- Date
- early 2000
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- 18k white gold
- Dimensions
- Case 35 mm
- Stock no.
- W-3554
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3554)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Patek Philippe Calatrava 18k White Gold Clous de Paris ref. 5120G (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3554), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in France, dated early 2000. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k white gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
The Patek Philippe Calatrava, launched in 1932 with the iconic Reference 96, is a legendary collection symbolizing timeless, minimalist elegance. It emerged after Patek Philippe’s acquisition by the Stern brothers during the Great Depression—a pivotal moment that steered the brand toward understated, high-quality design. Named after the brand’s cross emblem—originally linked to a medieval Spanish chivalric order—the Calatrava set the standard for the modern dress watch with its clean lines, round case, and Bauhaus-inspired “form follows function” aesthetic. The Reference 5120 is a spiritual successor to the beloved hobnail (“clous de Paris”) Calatrava models such as the manual-wind Ref. 3919, translating that classic design language into an elegant automatic format. This ultra-thin 18k white gold case, measuring 35 mm, is in lovely condition, with its double row of hobnail pyramids around the bezel still crisp and well defined. It features gently curved lugs and a sapphire display back that offers a clear view of the 22k gold micro-rotor and the beautifully finished Caliber 240—an icon in its own right. The dial presents a clean white canvas with painted Roman numerals, no seconds hand for an added sense of tranquility, and simple blackened stick hands. It is paired with a refined Bulang & Sons leather strap and fitted with an 18k white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle. This minimalistic Calatrava has been fully serviced by our watchmaker and is ready to be enjoyed for many years to come. The 5120 represents perhaps the last generation of truly two-hand (hour + minute) automatic Calatavas from Patek — minimalism at its finest.. Give your collection the clous de Paris touch it deserves—take this refined Calatrava home! Specifications: Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5120G 35mm 18k white gold case with “hobnail” bezel Display case back White dial with black Roman numerals and non-lumed hands Bulang and sons leather strap , 18 k white gold Patek' pin buckle Calibre 240 automatic movement with gold micro rotor Movement number 120xxxx, dating to the early 2000’s Fully serviced by our watchmaker
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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