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Patek Philippe Aquanuat ref. 4960A, 'Ladies' Tritium Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Aquanuat ref. 4960A, 'Ladies' Tritium Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
c. late 1990s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 30 mm
Stock no.
OC2953
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2953)
Catalogue title (original)
Patek Philippe Aquanuat Ref. 4960A - 'Ladies' Tritium Dial (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2953), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated c. late 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 30 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The first Aquanaut was officially launched in 1997 and paid tribute to its older brother, the Nautilus, by way of its overall sporting appearance, and its bezel shape — and thats about it. Gone were the porthole-style 'ears' and in with more traditional lugs — allowing for a more conventional (and versatile) wearing experience. Being the 1990s, many of the first References utilized Tritium on their dials for a number of years, extending into the early 2000s, and they are already and will continue to age beautifully in the years to come. Neo-vintage charm at its finest! The Aquanaut that we have here, a Reference 4960A, is a stainless steel example dating to circa the late 1990s intended to be the first 'ladies' Aquanaut. It features a 30mm stainless steel case, which preserves the wonderful proportions of both the regular and 'Jumbo' models from this era. Inside, this piece also utilizes an anthracite 'hobnail' dial with Tritium plots and a matching handset, which thankfully, this piece retains. This example comes fitted to its black 'hobnail'-pattern rubber strap with its correct stainless steel 'butterfly' deployant clasp, as well as an additional navy blue rubber strap and its correct stainless bracelet with articulating links and a signed hidden clasp. Early Aquanauts are a favorite for a few of us over here at HQ, and we think, a perfect 'elevated' daily driver that can be worn by virtually anyone and on a wide variety of straps. This 'ladies' model put a smile on everyones face here, and we hope that will extend to you or someone close!

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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