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Patek Philippe 18K "Top Hat" wristwatch, c. 1940 — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe 18K "Top Hat" wristwatch, c. 1940

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
c. 1940
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
crystal
Lot
Item 12463657
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 171, Fine Palm Beach & South Miami Estate Auction, K&M Auction Liquidation Sales, Ltd. (2012), via LiveAuctioneers
Catalogue title (original)
PATEK PHILIPPE 18K "TOP HAT" WRISTWATCH (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by LiveAuctioneers auction archive (lot Item 12463657), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1940. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: crystal. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — K&M Auction Liquidation Sales, Ltd.

Patek Philippe & Co. 18 jewels 18K circa 1940's "Top Hat" design wristwatch with a raised bevelled crystal. Watch is working at this time. SN 839095. Other than a small scratch on the crystal near the #11, watch is in good condition. Total length is approximately 7.25" long. Watch band is 14K and weighs 18.95 DWT. Watch case is 18K and weighs 12.35 DWT with crystal.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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