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Omega Constellation Calendar, 18k Gold, ref. 168.5004, circa 1966 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Omega Constellation Calendar, 18k Gold, ref. 168.5004, circa 1966

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Omega (maker)
Date
c. 1966
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
gold
Stock no.
vws2997cs
Credit line
Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws2997cs)
Catalogue title (original)
Omega Constellation Calendar - 18k Gold - Box and Papers - Model Ref: 168.5004 - c.1966 (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws2997cs), this is a wristwatch by Omega, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1966. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist

A Stunning 18k Gold Omega Constellation Model Ref: 168.5004 Offered For Sale with its Original Box and Partial Paperwork, Superb Condition, c.1966 The Omega Constellation Collection, introduced in 1952, signifies a cornerstone in horological excellence. Named to evoke the celestial precision of its timekeeping, the collection was initially celebrated for its pioneering design and chronometric performance. The original models featured a distinctive "pie-pan" dial, named for its unique shape, which added depth and dimension and became a hallmark of sophistication. What's on Offer Sold with its original 'Constellation' box and certificate of high precision ( this is marked with the watch's specific movement number), this watch is in beautiful pre-owned condition and benefits from a new Omega-signed crystal with a silver tension ring. The dial is the jewel in the crown of this watch and is exquisite, crafted from 18k gold and blemish-free, the hour plots are marked by applied gold batons with onyx inserts and corresponding Dauphine hands. We do feel at some point this dial has been refinished given the position of the 'Swiss Made' signature - however, this is almost certainly a historical re finish and we think it looks fantastic. The original solid gold dial has been restored by one of the best dial restorers in the country - it remains original but has enjoyed some TLC. There is a subtle framed date at 3 o'clock and the dial is completed by an applied Omega emblem and the synonymous Constellation star. To the case back you will note the observatory with eight stars engraving as we would expect to see, the engraving is still sharp and in fantastic condition. The case, which is in beautiful condition, was produced in the UK by Dennison, the largest watch manufacturer in England, who supplied high-quality cases and even movements to prestigious watch brands such as Omega. This now legendary range ran from 24,410,000 – 24,509,999. Cal 27,90RA [561] - Résultants Particulièrement Bons (“Especially Good Results”) Date ranges from 5 Oct 1964 – 10 Feb 1966 The movement in this watch is very special - it was one of the famous 100,000 that went through COSC testing, achieving 'merit' status and without a single one failing. The watch is paired with a beautiful handmade strap boasting an original Omega pin buckle in 9k gold - this isn't illustrated in the pictures but it has been added since the watch was photographed. The box and paperwork is also available to see if you are interested in the watch - we simply overlooked having them photographed!

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches

Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.

Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.

What to look for

  • Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
  • Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
  • Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.

Dating clues

  • Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
  • Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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