Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Omega 'Calatrava' Cal. 26.5.T3, Gloss Black 'Gilt' Dial
- Maker / attribution
- Omega (maker)
- Date
- c. 1943
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 30 mm
- Stock no.
- OC3161
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3161)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Omega 'Calatrava' Cal. 26.5.T3 - Gloss Black 'Gilt' Dial (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3161), this is a wristwatch by Omega, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1943. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 30 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke
Omega is undeniably one of the most historically important timepiece manufactures of all time. In fact, the Speedmaster is probably the most important wrist watch of all time. As a result, the Speedmaster casts a massive shadow over all of its siblings.... even over firmly planted models like the Seamaster and Constellation ranges. The resulting effect is double sided: many vintage Omegas, we feel are incredibly undervalued in the market as it exists today, with the other side of that being that hidden gems are shocking attainable. Take the piece that we haver here, a stainless steel Calatrava-style time-only watch dating to circa 1943. This Ref. 2383-6 has a ton going for it. The 30mm case is wonderfully preserved and in excellent condition, with crisp lug holes and symmetrical proportions. It also features a steel crown at 3 o'clock, a screw-down caseback, and Omega's own Cal. 26.5.T3 manual-winding movement inside. The dial however, is the highlight of this particular example. Like the case, it is wonderfully preserved, with a rich glossy black surface that shows only faint signs of aging with stunning patinated Radium 'Roman' indices. It is complimented by a 'sword' handset that matches nicely. This piece, with its sizing, condition, and completely unique dial really embodies everything that makes vintage great. What more can you ask for?
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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