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Longines Dress Watch (Ref. 22199) Black Gilt Dial, 1942 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Longines Dress Watch (Ref. 22199) Black Gilt Dial, 1942

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Longines (maker)
Date
1942
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
LONGDW22199
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (LONGDW22199)
Catalogue title (original)
1942 Longines Dress Watch (Ref. 22199) Black Gilt Dial (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number LONGDW22199), this is a wristwatch by Longines, made in Switzerland, dated 1942. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Longines is one of the world’s oldest continuously operating watch manufacturers, with origins stretching back to 1832. Over nearly two centuries, the brand has earned a reputation for crafting timepieces of remarkable precision—so much so that Longines serves as the official timekeeper of the Kentucky Derby, where accuracy is everything. From robust chronographs and capable divers to elegant dress watches, Longines has consistently delivered designs that balance beauty and functionality. Its history is rich with military-issued pieces, refined sports watches, and some of the most charming dress references of the mid-century era. SPECS Stock # LONGDW22199 Brand Longines Style Dress Watch Model 22199 Serial 64XXXXX Size Men's / Unisex Material Stainless Steel Dial Black "Gilt" Millimeters 31.5 Strap 2pc Canvas Strap CASE & BRACELET The thin, faceted lug case shows honest wear throughout, consistent with the age of the watch, while also retaining crisp factory chamfers and finishing throughout. The unsigned crown is likely an early replacement, but it matches the aesthetic of the watch perfectly. The snap-fit case back shows light wear. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc canvas strap. DIAL & HANDS The original glossy glack galvanic gilt dial remains beautifully preserved, showing some light age and a spotted patina throughout. The radium numerals have achieved a charming brown patina, and no notable degradation is present when inspected under UV light. The original blued steel hands show some light age and oxidation, but no degradation is present in the lume under UV light inspection, and the lume also matches the dial perfectly. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping running, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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