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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Longines - A lady's 9ct gold wristwatch, c. 1912

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Longines (maker)
Date
c. 1912
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
enamel, gold
Lot
Item 70446349
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 170, The Jewellery, Silver & Watches Sale, Cheffins (2019), via LiveAuctioneers
Catalogue title (original)
Longines - A lady's 9ct gold wristwatch, (English)

View the source record (auction lot) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by LiveAuctioneers auction archive (lot Item 70446349), this is a wristwatch by Longines, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1912. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: enamel, gold. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Cheffins

Longines - A lady's 9ct gold wristwatch, circa 1912, the circular signed white enamel dial, 20mm diameter, with black Arabic numerals (number 12 in red), gold coloured dot minute track and blued hands, the unsigned mechanical crown wind movement calibre 11.87 with hand setting button at 2 o'clock, the case by Arthur Baume & Co, with London import marks for 9ct gold 1912, number 2530404, the caseback with personal engraving, case 28mm diameter, with fixed wire lugs to an aftermarket crocodile grain strap with pin buckle, gross weight 21.4g

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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