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LeCoultre 10K GF “Empire Steps” Ladies Watch c. 1950 Cal.490/EW 17J Art Deco Style — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

LeCoultre 10K GF “Empire Steps” Ladies Watch c. 1950 Cal.490/EW 17J Art Deco Style

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
LeCoultre (maker)
Date
c. 1950
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Lot
Item 218552396
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 347, EXCLUSIVE WATCHES AND POCKET WATCHES 3, Sphere Auctions LLC (2025), via LiveAuctioneers
Catalogue title (original)
LeCoultre 10K GF “Empire Steps” Ladies Watch c.1950 Cal.490/EW 17J Art Deco Style (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by LiveAuctioneers auction archive (lot Item 218552396), this is a wristwatch by LeCoultre, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1950. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Sphere Auctions LLC

Elegant vintage LeCoultre rectangular wristwatch, circa 1950, featuring the distinctive stepped “Empire Steps” bezel inspired by late-Art Deco skyscraper design. The black dial shows gilt markers with Arabic numerals at 12-3-6-9 and is signed LeCoultre. Inside is a Swiss-made 17-jewel manual-wind Caliber 490/EW movement (serial 796167) housed in a U.S.-cased 10K gold-filled case numbered 52857. Measures approximately 15 mm wide (excluding crown). Untested.Details:Brand: LeCoultre (Jaeger-LeCoultre U.S. market)Era: c. 1950Case Size: 15 mm × ~28 mm rectangularCase Material: 10K gold-filled, stepped “Empire” bezelMovement: Manual-wind Cal. 490/EW 17 jewels Swiss (untested)Dial: Black with gilt markers & Arabic numerals (12-3-6-9)Crown: Fluted unsignedCrystal: AcrylicBracelet: Period expansion bandCondition: Untested; shows light surface wear and patina; dial and crystal show age.Nickname: “Empire Steps” / “Skyscraper” design

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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