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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Salmon Dial Limited Edition (Ref. 270.0.54.A), 1990s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Salmon Dial Limited Edition (Ref. 270.0.54.A), 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Jaeger-LeCoultre (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 25 mm
Stock no.
Product 15887225323703
Credit line
Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 15887225323703)
Catalogue title (original)
1990s Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Salmon Dial Limited Edition (Ref. 270.0.54.A) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 15887225323703), this is a wristwatch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 25 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Huntington Company

History and Significance The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the rare watches whose original design has remained relevant for nearly a century. Introduced in 1931, the Reverso was developed to solve a practical problem faced by polo players, whose watch crystals were susceptible to damage during matches. Its ingenious reversible case allowed the dial to be turned inward, protecting the crystal behind a solid metal surface. The rectangular architecture, horizontal gadroons, and unmistakable Art Deco proportions quickly established the Reverso as something considerably more interesting than a conventional sports watch. What began as a functional solution eventually became one of the most recognizable expressions of classical Swiss watchmaking. The development of the Reverso Duoface transformed the original concept into something far more mechanically ambitious. Rather than using the reverse side exclusively for protection or personal engraving, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced a second dial capable of displaying an additional time zone. Both displays are powered by a single manually wound movement, requiring an exceptionally thoughtful arrangement of the mechanical components within the narrow rectangular case. The complication is particularly impressive because the reversible construction already presents considerable engineering challenges. Incorporating two functional displays while preserving the familiar proportions of the Reverso demonstrates the manufacturer's longstanding expertise in complicated movements. The reference 270.0.54.A is an especially interesting interpretation of that concept, produced as a limited edition of just 250 pieces. Its salmon dial introduces a warmth that is rarely associated with the more familiar silver executions of the Reverso. The finely textured surface, contrasting Arabic numerals, and blued hands create a combination that recalls some of the most attractive dress watches of the early twentieth century. A subsidiary seconds display at six o'clock adds another classical element, while the familiar rectangular case provides the architectural framework that has defined the collection since 1931. Writer’s Thoughts There are certain dial and case combinations that seem particularly well suited to one another, and salmon with white gold is among the most attractive. The reference 270.0.54.A demonstrates that beautifully. The warm salmon dial gives the Reverso an entirely different personality, while the cool white gold case keeps the overall appearance restrained. The limited production of 250 pieces adds an interesting dimension, but the design itself is what makes the watch memorable. The Reverso has appeared in countless configurations, yet relatively few achieve such an appealing balance between an unusual dial and the original Art Deco architecture. The Duoface complication also gives the watch a mechanical character that goes far beyond its elegant appearance. Rotating the case to reveal a second functional dial remains one of the most satisfying experiences in traditional watchmaking, particularly when the movement is housed within such a slender case. The reference 270.0.54.A combines that ingenuity with one of the most attractive dial treatments found in the Reverso collection. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre Model: Reverso Duoface Salmon Dial Limited Edition Reference: 270.0.54.A Year: 1990s Case Material: 18k White Gold and Rose Gold Case Size: 25mm x 42mm Dial: Salmon Guilloché Dial and Grey Dial Movement: Manual-Winding Mechanical Duoface Movement Strap/Buckle: New H.C. Orange Lizard Leather Strap Buckle/Clasp: Original Jaeger-LeCoultre 18k White Gold Deployant Clasp Contents: Watch only Condition Case: The gold case remains in excellent condition with light surface wear consistent with age and use. The reversible case retains attractive definition and well-preserved polished surfaces. Dial: Both dials remain in excellent condition with beautiful color, crisp printing, and well-preserved textured finishing. Hands: Hands remain in excellent condition with attractive, consistent finishing. Crystal: Crystal remains in excellent condition with minimal signs of wear. Strap/Buckle: Newly fitted H.C. orange textured leather strap remains in excellent condition. Buckle/Clasp: Original Jaeger-LeCoultre white gold deployant clasp remains in excellent condition with light surface wear.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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