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IWC Automatic (Ref. 817A) Cal. 854, 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

IWC Automatic (Ref. 817A) Cal. 854, 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
IWC (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
IWC817A
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (IWC817A)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s IWC Automatic (Ref. 817A) Cal. 854 (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number IWC817A), this is a wristwatch by IWC, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Founded more than 150 years ago, the International Watch Company has grown to become one of the most recognizable Swiss watch brands on the planet. And one of the things they're especially famous for is their caliber 85 movement, which is widely regarded as one of the finest watch movements ever made. The cal. 85 was introduced in the 1950s and was the second automatic movement the brand ever made – it was also their first automatic movement with central seconds. That movement went on to birth multiple subsequent versions, including the cal. 852, 853, 854, and finally the 8541B. The cal. 854 (or 8541) in-house movement found in this ref. 817A was initially introduced in 1964 and received widespread recognition when IWC utilized it in their premier Ingenieur line of watches. But the movement was also used in a wide variety of different offerings from the IWC brand, thanks to its robust design and reliability. This particular IWC in stainless steel is simply stunning with a no-nonsense design. The dressy Calatrava case and dial design pair excellently with the utilitarian stainless steel material. This watch makes for a highly reliable daily wearer, which is designed to last. SPECS Stock # IWC817A Brand IWC Style Calatrava Model 817A Serial 220XXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Silver Millimeters 35 Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The exceptional stainless steel Calatrava-style case features short and broad lugs with light signs of honest use and is believed to remain unpolished. The case retains its original IWC fish logo crown. The case back shows wear appropriate for its age. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The silver sunburst dial features subtle details that elevate this watch from simple to sophisticated. The dial itself remains in excellent vintage condition, and the onyx enamel inlaid markers match the onyx enamel inlaid hands perfectly. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is running at spec and is in perfect working condition; additional service history is unknown.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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