
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
IWC Automatic Calatrava 'Cal. 852' 18K YG "Neiman Marcus" Co-Branded Dial, 1950s
- Maker / attribution
- IWC (maker)
- Date
- 1950s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- IWC18KCAL852NM
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (IWC18KCAL852NM)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1950s IWC Automatic Calatrava 'Cal. 852' 18K YG "Neiman Marcus" Co-Branded Dial (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number IWC18KCAL852NM), this is a wristwatch by IWC, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
Founded more than 150 years ago, the International Watch Company has grown to become one of the most recognizable Swiss watch brands on the planet. And one of the things they're especially famous for is their caliber 85 movement, which is widely regarded as one of the finest watch movements ever made. The cal. 85 was introduced in the 1950s and was the second automatic movement the brand ever made – it was also their first automatic movement with central seconds. That movement went on to birth multiple subsequent versions, including the cal. 852, 853, 854, and finally the 8541B. IWC’s Caliber 852 originally came into production post-war, in 1952. Featuring the Pellaton winding system, a new and extremely efficient movement system for perpetual automatic wristwatch movements. This innovative movement was patented by IWC in 1950 and we saw the first mass production of these watches in 1952. The Pellaton winding system is still used in IWC watches today and has been improved upon ever since. Surrounding the heartbeat is an absolutely beautiful yellow gold Calatrava-style case and dial. It's as classic—and classy—as they come and would look good on any wrist, in pretty much any setting While it's no secret many retailers would co-brand their logos on the dials of prestigious watch brands, most commonly seen done by jewelry brands such as Tiffany & Co., Turler, and Gubelin, however, this is much less commonly seen done by department stores. Such as this Neiman Marcus branded IWC. Neiman Marcus was founded in 1907 in Dallas Texas, and remains today as one of the most well-known luxury department stores in the United States. SPECS Stock # IWC18KCAL852NM Brand IWC Style Automatic Calatrava Model Cal. 852 Serial 14XXXXX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Silver Guilloche "Neiman Marcus" Millimeters 34 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The handsome 18K yellow gold case features unique bombe-style lugs that extend the overall wrist presence and size of the watch along with creating a striking aesthetic overall. The case exhibits evidence of gentle polishing in the past while retaining the attractive angles and dimensions intended by the factory with light signs of use present. The case retains its original IWC fish logo crown. The snap-on case back is in excellent condition. The case does feature a Neiman Marcus inventory number on the back of the bottom left lug. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original two-toned silver dial features a satin finish on the inner and outer portions of the dial with a beautiful guilloche ring that houses the gold hour markers. the dial does exhibit some spots and light markings from age, coinciding with the age of the watch, however, we believe this increases the vintage aesthetic and charm of the watch overall. The solid gold dauphine-style hands display some minor oxidation but remain in excellent overall condition. ACCESSORIES
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Automatic (self-winding) watches
Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.
What to look for
- A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
- 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
- A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.
Dating clues
- Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
- Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
- Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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