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Hamilton Chronomatic II (Ref. 9988) White Dial, 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Hamilton (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
HAMCH9988-2
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (HAMCH9988-2)
Catalogue title (original)
1990s Hamilton Chronomatic II (Ref. 9988) White Dial (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number HAMCH9988-2), this is a wristwatch by Hamilton, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Hamilton was founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1882, initially specializing in producing pocket watches. The brand boasts a long and impressive history of breakthroughs in design and technology and perhaps is best known for its extensive work as the official supplier to the U.S. Armed Forces. Stock # HAMCH9988-2 Brand Hamilton Style Chronomatic II Model 9988 Serial N/A Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial White W/ Black Sub-Dials Millimeters 39 Strap Hamilton President-Style Bracelet W/ Flip-Lock Clasp CASE & BRACELET The stainless steel case appears to have been gently polished and is in great condition, showing only minimal signs of use. It retains its original pump-pushers and Hamilton-signed crown. The fixed "Units Per Hour' bezel is in fantastic condition remaining highly legible with minimal signs of use. The case back is clean with limited wear and the factory markings all remain fully intact. The watch will be supplied on its original Hamilton stainless steel President-style bracelet with flip-lock clasp and diver's extension, the bracelet will fit up to a 7 3/4 inch wrist DIAL & HANDS The "panda" style dial features a white center with black chronograph registers and a black outer minute track. The hour indices, and hour and minute hands are golden, which adds a certain regal air to the piece. The tritium lume plots remain fully intact around the dial when inspected under U.V. light, as do the original tritium hands. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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